Kaptas Attila:
@Chris White Thank you i am gonna give a try, but should i reduce the backfocus as well? I mean in the description they recommened the focus point holding at half way arounfld 56000 +/-
At what point you have your focus?
or if i screw out its gonna automaticly shorter? No. You need to learn about how newtonian telescopes work. If you reduce your backspacing you make your problem worse. This will push the focus position further out with your focuser. The focal plane is more or less fixed. You need to put the focal plane at the middle of your focuser travel. In your case you can achieve this in two ways. 1) raise the focuser, which is what i am telling you to do. 2) increase your backspacing. You don't want to do this because backspacing is critical to be at 56.2mm plus filter. If you change your spacing to fix your problem you will not have good field correction. There is a 3rd way to fix your problem but it is not easily achievable with the Epsilon. You can increase the distance between your primary and secondary mirrors. But don't do this. I'm just explaining focal plane position. If you increase the spacing between your mirrors it will lower the focal plane. If you want to image with a newtonian you should read about how they work. I recommend vic Menards book on newtonian telescopes. It is an excellent starting point.
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Thank you Chris. It a pleasure. This is my first newtonian, and i know maybe not the best beginner newtonian. But i wanna understand them i gonna go for this book. I am gonna incrase today the focusser in this way you mentioned.
Thank you really appreciated.
Can i do this with the camera on or its to dangerous.
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Kaptas Attila:
Thank you Chris. It a pleasure. This is my first newtonian, and i know maybe not the best beginner newtonian. But i wanna understand them i gonna go for this book. I am gonna incrase today the focusser in this way you mentioned.
Thank you really appreciated.
Can i do this with the camera on or its to dangerous. You will be fine. The Epsilon is well built and that helps when you are learning. Just dont expect perfect stars right off. Be patient. It is a learning process and very rewarding. I'd just remove the focuser at the lower flange like in my photo. This gives you better access to the locking ring you need to tighten.
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Maybe a stupid question but if i screw down the triangle for focuser is the collimation gone? Otherweis i have no acess to the yellow ring to incrase the space.
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Kaptas Attila:
Maybe a stupid question but if i screw down the triangle for focuser is the collimation gone? Otherweis i have no acess to the yellow ring to incrase the space. No. Raising or lowering the focuser will probably not have an impact on collimation. (Or very small). Can you take a photo of what you have currently? From the side? I'm not really understanding your question.
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Kaptas Attila:
Maybe a stupid question but if i screw down the triangle for focuser is the collimation gone? Otherweis i have no acess to the yellow ring to incrase the space.
No. Raising or lowering the focuser will probably not have an impact on collimation. (Or very small).
Can you take a photo of what you have currently? From the side?
I'm not really understanding your question.
i am outside now. the adapter is complately screwed in, i tryed yesterday to screw the whole thing and the motor part has turned as well and i mean of that have an impact to collimation? i moved back but i think i have to screw down the motor otherweis i cant move the adapter.
I hope now is a bit more undersatble.
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i am outside now. the adapter is complately screwed in, i tryed yesterday to screw the whole thing and the motor part has turned as well and i mean of that have an impact to collimation? i moved back but i think i have to screw down the motor otherweis i cant move the adapter.
I hope now is a bit more undersatble.
I apologize, but I still don't understand what you are asking. Simply remove the focuser (triangle motor and drawtube housing) from the lower adapter as i pictured. Then thread out the base a few mm and lock it down with the orange ring. Then attach the focuser back on the lower adapter. This will fix your problem.
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Ok i ll doing it. I just wasnt sure if i remove and put back that have impact for the collimation, or not?
But thanky you for everything and really sorry for my bad english. I need to work on it😂 never learned it.
cheers Attila
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Kaptas Attila:
Ok i ll doing it. I just wasnt sure if i remove and put back that have impact for the collimation, or not?
But thanky you for everything and really sorry for my bad english. I need to work on it😂 never learned it.
cheers Attila It may impact collimation, you should certainly check it after the change. You should also learn not to be afraid of collimating the scope. The more you do it, and spend time on it, the more confident you will be in your ability to collimate the scope.  |
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Kaptas Attila:
Ok i ll doing it. I just wasnt sure if i remove and put back that have impact for the collimation, or not?
But thanky you for everything and really sorry for my bad english. I need to work on it😂 never learned it.
cheers Attila Don't worry. I only speak English, so you are way ahead of me. :-)
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But you are far far far away from me with your knowledge about our beautiful hobby.
i am speaking fluent german as well.
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@Chris WhiteSo i did the modification and checked the collimation. should be all god. now i have my focus point on 57000 thank you for your help again. I am imaging now the pleijades i am really excited what it ll be? Cheers and just thx again.
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hi guys. i had some first light. i hope i can attach some pictures that you guys can say your meaning about collimation etc.   thank you in advance. Pls dont forget i am not professional i am just doing it for 1 year. CS Attila
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Kaptas Attila:
@Chris White
So i did the modification and checked the collimation. should be all god. now i have my focus point on 57000 thank you for your help again.
I am imaging now the pleijades i am really excited what it ll be?
Cheers and just thx again. Fantastic! Glad you sorted it out. Excellent first light image as well. Congrats!
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Looks fantastic! Once I get back from vacation I'll get my Optec installed and hopefully the weather will cooperate.
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Hi everybody, For those using a fan on the back of the 160ED, Could you tell me on what temperature range you think it makes sense to activate the fan? In summer it has its advantages but I have the impression that in winter it tends to accelerate the formation of fog / frost on the primary mirror. So there must be ideal temperature ranges  |
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Julien Dufour:
Hi everybody,
For those using a fan on the back of the 160ED,
Could you tell me on what temperature range you think it makes sense to activate the fan?
In summer it has its advantages but I have the impression that in winter it tends to accelerate the formation of fog / frost on the primary mirror.
So there must be ideal temperature ranges I plan to use the fan all the time. Even in winter, and I get VERY cold winters here with some nights at -25C. It is very important to move air with this scope. Moving air is a prevention for frost. In fact, farmers use giant fans to move air across sensitive crops when there is a risk of frost. My family has Christmas tree farms and in the springtime when the new growth is fragile, frost is a real problem. If there is a very slight breeze it can completely prevent frost from forming on the plants. Very still air is the worst.
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I plan to use the fan all the time. Even in winter, and I get VERY cold winters here with some nights at -25C.
It is very important to move air with this scope. Moving air is a prevention for frost. In fact, farmers use giant fans to move air across sensitive crops when there is a risk of frost. My family has Christmas tree farms and in the springtime when the new growth is fragile, frost is a real problem. If there is a very slight breeze it can completely prevent frost from forming on the plants. Very still air is the worst. Thanks a lot Chris, You convinced me :-) A last question (I hope not off topic) : What is the max lenght of a dew-shield for the 160ED (max lenght before vignetting issues) ? I have experienced dew on the secondary...
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Julien Dufour:
I plan to use the fan all the time. Even in winter, and I get VERY cold winters here with some nights at -25C.
It is very important to move air with this scope. Moving air is a prevention for frost. In fact, farmers use giant fans to move air across sensitive crops when there is a risk of frost. My family has Christmas tree farms and in the springtime when the new growth is fragile, frost is a real problem. If there is a very slight breeze it can completely prevent frost from forming on the plants. Very still air is the worst.
Thanks a lot Chris,
You convinced me :-)
A last question (I hope not off topic) :
What is the max lenght of a dew-shield for the 160ED (max lenght before vignetting issues) ?
I have experienced dew on the secondary... If I remember correctly, you can find this information in the users manual. I believe there is a specific length they say not to exceed. I followed Bill's advice and had a custom heated dew shield made by astrozap. It is 10" long, and about 2 inches are on the OTA itself. This puts the extension under the limit specified by Tak. I have been using this in VERY humid conditions and it has worked perfectly to prevent dew from the secondary as well as the primary. And of course the fan helps as well.
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Julien Dufour:
I plan to use the fan all the time. Even in winter, and I get VERY cold winters here with some nights at -25C.
It is very important to move air with this scope. Moving air is a prevention for frost. In fact, farmers use giant fans to move air across sensitive crops when there is a risk of frost. My family has Christmas tree farms and in the springtime when the new growth is fragile, frost is a real problem. If there is a very slight breeze it can completely prevent frost from forming on the plants. Very still air is the worst.
Thanks a lot Chris,
You convinced me :-)
A last question (I hope not off topic) :
What is the max lenght of a dew-shield for the 160ED (max lenght before vignetting issues) ?
I have experienced dew on the secondary... I will add that the Fan is not just for dew prevention. There is a pocket of air that forms in the tube that must be dispelled. If not, it leads to star aberrations. (like a small teardrop shape to the stars).
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If I remember correctly, you can find this information in the users manual. I believe there is a specific length they say not to exceed. I followed Bill's advice and had a custom heated dew shield made by astrozap. It is 10" long, and about 2 inches are on the OTA itself. This puts the extension under the limit specified by Tak. I have been using this in VERY humid conditions and it has worked perfectly to prevent dew from the secondary as well as the primary. And of course the fan helps as well. Perfect ! Chris, again, thank you :-)
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Yeah the fan is a must. Very noticable improvements with the fan running.
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spotHi everyone,
A question for owners of Octopi with mono/filter wheel,
Do you often have to adjust your Octopi configuration?
Or did you just do it once and it doesn't move?
I've just ordered mine
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Julien Dufour:
spotHi everyone,
A question for owners of Octopi with mono/filter wheel,
Do you often have to adjust your Octopi configuration?
Or did you just do it once and it doesn't move?
I've just ordered mine Unless you change something in your image train it's pretty stable. I've only been using it for about 8 months now but I've never had to tweak things unless I reconfigure or change spacing or something.
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