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That's crazy spot on !!!!
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@Kaptas Attila , I went off the deep end and went the full frame route. I have the Optec LEO coming and the Octopi device to adjust tilt and backspacing. I went with the QHY600 Short Back Focal Length model. Instead of using the QHY filter wheel, I listened to the guys here and got the Pegasus Astro Indigo EFW. I did use the QHY OAG though. Since I've used Astronomik's MaxFR filters for my APS-C camera I stayed with them but in 50mm. I'm still waiting on the LEO and the Oiii filter. I also have a precise parts adapter coming to get from the corrector to the OAG. I'm an engineer and tinkerer and part of the "fun" for astrophotography for me is the journey in designing and getting a scope out under the stars and taking images. It's like a constantly evolving puzzle. If you are more interested in getting out under the stars quicker, I would recommend staying with your APS-C and then upgrade later. I have been wanting to upgrade to full frame for a while and then I snagged the 160 and it gave me an excuse! |
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Kaptas Attila: To add to this, it's been interesting because all of the tools that you can use for dialing in tilt and spacing objectively (Which I've written a quite a lot about) all have shortcomings and limitations with the e160ed+IMX455. The time consuming part that Bill and I have been working on has been to identify these shortcomings, and figure out ways to get around them. There is no way I could have figured this out on my own. It seemed that almost daily we were spit balling on how to get around the problems of analysis. Between the two of us we probably have well over 100 hours of testing alone on this system. Now through a combination of current tools, new methods, and old school visual validation... I think we are there. It's not simple and there is a lot to package up here for any sort of article so it will take some time to present. I suspect Bill and I will start a new thread on the topic as well as update the current tilt thread and this one here. Honestly, the in depth approach that we need to write about is really only needed with the big chips with tiny pixels, although it could be applied to any imaging system. The simple methods I've outlined in the past are good enough (and easy enough) for smaller chips, but working with IMX455 on any fast system will require SIGNIFICANT effort to dial it in. Stay tuned. |
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Does have the opitec any backlash? what are you usig as a step size? i mean shouldnt be different btw yours and mine, system is the same, right? Why is the indigo filterwheel so different?i hadnt had any problem with the qhy. |
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Kaptas Attila: The LEO doesnt have backlash (Or very close to zero). Step size is 0.08micron. Or are you asking about how many steps for a focus routine? For that I'd try around 900 steps. The QHY Wheel has a history of driver issues, centering issues, no native unidirectional support, and quality control with respect to precision manufacturing. The Indigo is better built, has better drivers and is a big upgrade over the CFW3 in my opinion. |
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They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl I had those printed by CraftCloud and they do not fit the Indigo. They are too small by several mm. I'll have to see if I can scale them a little larger and print them on my friend's printer. So for the time being (still waiting on the LEO so Im not going to be imaging) I'll install the filters using the donuts unless I can get the filter masks scaled to the correct size. |
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Daniel Carter:They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl I printed them myself, sliced with Prusa Slicer on my Prusa Mini and they worked excellent. No scaling changes needed. I made Chris' set as well. |
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Daniel Carter:They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl The ones I had printed were about 2 mm too small in diameter for the screw hole alignment. I will send the file to my friend and have one printed out this weekend to see if was the same size as the ones from CraftCloud. He has a Flashforge Adventurer 3 if I recall. I just need to invest in a decent 3D printer and do it myself. Seems like it would be useful. |
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Daniel Carter:They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl Hi.Are the designs for the fan 160ed fan mount yours ? I wouldn't mind scaling the mounting flange up for a 180ed Thanks |
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No that was designed by @Tyrel Smith.
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I might still have the fusion 360 files if you want to mod them.
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Tyrel Smith: Thats nice of you , thanks but I cant use Fusion360 on my Linux machine. Ive printed out your 160ed version and have been trying to take some direct measurements from the fan attachment piece to the flange mount but the flange i made wouldnt thread onto the original fan mount piece. It might be easier make both pieces so i can ensure a good thread match .. Im new to3D printing and CAD but ican see the potential in it for this hobby. |
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Daniel Carter:They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl I broke down and just got an Adventurer 3 yesterday to play with 3D printing myself. @Bill Long I reprinted the file you provided and it was the right size. It was weird that the ones I had printed through Craftcloud were about 1mm smaller in diameter. I printed 4 on the first batch and they work so I'm printing the remainder now. I do have a question about the Indigo and a QHY OAG. I used the 3mm screws the attach the OAG directly to the Indigo. The Indigo has those adjustment slots that allow you to rotate the OAG or camera if you use the Indigo inserts. Since I didn't use those inserts I can see through those slots into the filter wheel. I would imagine that allows light leakage. How did you avoid that? I was thinking of black gaffers tape but I'm open to input. Thanks! Daniel |
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Daniel Carter:Daniel Carter:They have excellent printable filter masks for the Indigo wheel: 50mm_Mask.stl You need to contact pegasus. They have machined masks for these holes. They are now including them with the wheels. They should send you a set for free. There is also a 3d printed mask you can print in the meantime. I think Bill shared the file earlier in this thread. |
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I saw the filter mask post but I don't recall seeing the file for the slots. I'll look again as well as contact Pegasus. Thanks! |
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Daniel Carter: Here you are: Slot cover ring v3.stl |
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Daniel Carter: @Bill Long you are awesome! Thank you for sharing and thank both you and @Chris White for all of the leg work and testing y'all have done providing help to us crazy people wanting to use a full frame camera on the 160. |
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You need to contact pegasus. They have machined masks for these holes. They are now including them with the wheels. They should send you a set for free. There is also a 3d printed mask you can print in the meantime. I think Bill shared the file earlier in this thread. Can confirm, they sent mine for free. |
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Daniel Carter:Daniel Carter: No problem man, one of the things I enjoy the most about the Astro community is how we come together to solve common problems and interests. |
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You need to contact pegasus. They have machined masks for these holes. They are now including them with the wheels. They should send you a set for free. There is also a 3d printed mask you can print in the meantime. I think Bill shared the file earlier in this thread. I sent them an email just a momemt ago. I'll print out the 3D version for the time being. I would imagine that Pegasus Astro may have the parts shipped to me before I get the Optec so hopefully I won't need the 3D part. It's nice to have in the meanwhile to help keep dust out of the EFW. |
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Daniel Carter:You need to contact pegasus. They have machined masks for these holes. They are now including them with the wheels. They should send you a set for free. There is also a 3d printed mask you can print in the meantime. I think Bill shared the file earlier in this thread. Many will be shocked to know, that I made a spacing change, even with the good results I was seeing. I will report back later on whether or not that was a good idea.  |
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Daniel Carter:Daniel Carter: You guys are just heroes ! This thread is a goldmine (this sentence might sound strange in Enligsh > but it makes sense in French  ). Thanks for your great contribution - speechless.
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The spacing change was a good idea, great idea in fact. While the tools all showed a very flat and well-corrected field, the eye did not completely agree with that assessment. I do not want to make this post super long, but I do want to call out that ASTAP does a good job with my script in Voyager for getting the field pretty darn close. That last mile though, I think it is really best to take the files from the script and spend a bunch of time in the Blink process in PI to actually watch what is happening in each corner and determine the right next steps to take. This is not going to be easy to explain, however. I am trying to figure out the best way to show this, and will work on a way that can help. Nonetheless, I can say that you really need to put the work in at the end manually and visually to determine the right steps to take for your situation. |
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Frame share: https://www.dropbox.com/s/m1pt5tmx58pr6o8/Bubble-Wide_LIGHT_HA_300s_BIN1_-5C_015_20220907_223948_387_GA_56_OF_40_W_c_cc.xisf?dl=0 This is calibrated and corrected for hot and cold pixels. Grade this, and give me your thoughts, folks. |
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10 stars from my end ! Incredibly sharp, and looking at the figures, this is a great return on investment ! 99.99999999 % of people would love to reach such level of performance - needless to say with such demanding equipment (fast optic, full frame, etc.) PS : I am in awe of the FOV !  |
