Aygen:
10 stars from my end ! Incredibly sharp, and looking at the figures, this is a great return on investment ! 99.99999999 % of people would love to reach such level of performance - needless to say with such demanding equipment (fast optic, full frame, etc.)
PS : I am in awe of the FOV !
 Look at the frame itself as well. I am not so sure these metrics are completely right. There is a lower right change I can make based on the focus pack data, but it is so small that it could have negative impacts on the full frame. Another thing to be mindful of with this scope and the big chip is that the M54 connection is a thing, and that can impact these programmatic results in ways that mislead.
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Nothing "bad" caught my eyes by looking at the frame itself. Icing on the cake, we're talking only about one single frame. Hence my rating  I wasn't aware of the M54 and its respective impact - something new to me. But got it ! Looking forward to hearing from more experienced guys - but I'd be surprise if they get to a completely different conclusion. Thanks for your great contribution towards this thread. All the findings, testings will be of great help in a few weeks when I get my "banana".
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Aygen:
Nothing "bad" caught my eyes by looking at the frame itself. Icing on the cake, we're talking only about one single frame. Hence my rating 
I wasn't aware of the M54 and its respective impact - something new to me. But got it !
Looking forward to hearing from more experienced guys - but I'd be surprise if they get to a completely different conclusion.
Thanks for your great contribution towards this thread. All the findings, testings will be of great help in a few weeks when I get my "banana". Cant wait to hear your experience, my friend.  People really need to know this scope CAN produce excellent data. Getting there, takes some work.
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Look at this freshly published IC 1396 by "rallyho" (e-160ed, full frame, etc.) : https://www.astrobin.com/msaekx/Outstanding - what you say  ?
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Aygen:
Look at this freshly published IC 1396 by "rallyho" (e-160ed, full frame, etc.) :
https://www.astrobin.com/msaekx/
Outstanding - what you say ? Good. IC 1396: Emission Nebula in Cepheus (rockstarbill) - Full resolution | AstroBinBetter.  |
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"speechless"  |
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I am really happy that Aygen gonna get the same scope like i have and he is living really near to me, i hope we could in the future doing some session together! And we can share our experiences etc.
looking froward.
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Kaptas Attila:
I am really happy that Aygen gonna get the same scope like i have and he is living really near to me, i hope we could in the future doing some session together! And we can share our experiences etc.
looking froward. Great idea Attila! Let's do it in a near future once I have tamed the beast.
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Another question of all of yiu, but its not about Epsilon.
what do you guys think its ab fs60c is good for widefield photography? Or better to getting an redcat51?
thx for advices.
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Let's try to keep focus on the main topic even though I too was distracted from it   But to answer your question, both will do the trick for a very large FOV. Then, it's all personal whether you want to go for one or the other. Personally, If you intend to use your e-160ed with a full frame (either now or later), then don't waste your money for any of the above mentioned.
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This thread is about the E160-ED, with all due respect let's keep it this way.
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@Bill Long@Aygen sorry you are both right. I asked nothing!
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All good dude, needless to be sorry !
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Bill,
Wow, just WOW! I looked at your Ha Bubble image in detail at 10:1. The stars in the corners are superb.
One request. Since this is 6 nm bandwidth image and at the long end of the design bandpass it may be hiding some chromatic effects. Do you have a Blue filter image we could look at? The shorter wavelengths are harder for the optical designer when optimizing for the whole spectrum so usually a good test. And at some point an RGB image would be important for things like lateral chromatic aberration which might show up on bright stars at the edge of the field.
One question and some advice, please. It seems there are two variables when fine tuning the camera's position. One is the extension of the focuser tube for the correct back spacing (56.2 without filter and ~57.2 with 3 mm glass filters). The other is the backspacing itself. If the focuser isn't in the right place one might be optimizing camera spacing incorrectly.
I am still using the stock focuser with the telescope colimated best I can at a fixed position angle. So what I have been doing is to try to eliminate the focuser position variable by auto focusing on a DSLR mounted with the Tak wide mouth T-ring adapter. It would seem this puts the camera at the right backspacing and allows the optimum focuser position to be achieved. I then remove the DSLR and install the imaging train (in my case a 54->68 mm adapter, ZWO OAG L, ZWO EFW, Octopi base (3mm thick) and ZWO ASI6200MM). This barely achieves 57.2 mm BFD with the camera clamp ring set to 1.95 mm above the top of the Octopi base - not ideal.
With the focuser set to optimum extension (in my case the stock focuser tube extendds 9.62 mm above the to of the flange to the bottom of the knurled corrector ring) I then adjust only the camera's position using the Octopi. I have to watch the temperature and only have an couple of hours or so to make adjustments. When I have reached the point of diminishing returns, I finally do an auto focus and check that the final position is within the CFZ of the DSLR focus setting. Of course the slop in the stock focuser adds some uncertainty to this.
Your advice: is this a reasonable way to adjust camera position?
Bill, you have established the gold standard for those of us trying to achieve the highest full frame image quality on the 160ED! What is most important in my view is that you have shown what is possible and what the rest of us can strive to achieve. Thank you and everyone participating in this thread.
Bob Fugate
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Bob, Here are a couple of broadband images I made: https://www.astrobin.com/ozfbf8/D/https://www.astrobin.com/idrs7e/F/Color management across the entire visible spectrum is superb.
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Both Bill and Chris are heroes !
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Bob,
Here are a couple of broadband images I made:
https://www.astrobin.com/ozfbf8/D/
https://www.astrobin.com/idrs7e/F/
Color management across the entire visible spectrum is superb. Chris, Thanks for sending these. Superb, indeed! How dark is your sky? Bob
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If i would go for mono what for filters would you recommened for Epsilon? My camera is defect and i have to send it back to Germany, maybe when they cant fixed it i am gonna ask for a change in.
Thank you for any advices.
Best
Attila
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Kaptas Attila:
If i would go for mono what for filters would you recommened for Epsilon? My camera is defect and i have to send it back to Germany, maybe when they cant fixed it i am gonna ask for a change in.
Thank you for any advices.
Best
Attila I got the Astronomik MaxFR 6nm filters along with the DeepSky RGB filters and the L2 luminance filter. I used those filters for my ASI2600MM (36mm filters) and stayed with them for the full frame (50mm filters). I've been pleased with them. I believe @Bill Long is using the same filters. They are supposed to work well for fast scopes. I ordered the set last month and I am still waiting on the Oiii filter. They said it should be the first part of this month when it ships. I have already received the remaining filters.
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Astronomik MaxFR have excellent reviews and are suitable for fast optical systems: LinkOthers brands are available too but I would go with the above. Have a look at Bill and Chris galleries, they both caught great photons 👍
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Kaptas Attila:
If i would go for mono what for filters would you recommened for Epsilon? My camera is defect and i have to send it back to Germany, maybe when they cant fixed it i am gonna ask for a change in.
Thank you for any advices.
Best
Attila I'm using astrodon NB and chroma LRGB. I am getting halos with Oiii on mag 2.5 stars. I'm considering selling all of my astrodons and chromas to get astronomiks. I've asked Bill to do a gamma Cass test shot with his O3 maxfr filter for a comparison.
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Bob,
Here are a couple of broadband images I made:
https://www.astrobin.com/ozfbf8/D/
https://www.astrobin.com/idrs7e/F/
Color management across the entire visible spectrum is superb.
Chris,
Thanks for sending these. Superb, indeed! How dark is your sky?
Bob
B3/B4
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Kaptas Attila:
If i would go for mono what for filters would you recommened for Epsilon? My camera is defect and i have to send it back to Germany, maybe when they cant fixed it i am gonna ask for a change in.
Thank you for any advices.
Best
Attila
I'm using astrodon NB and chroma LRGB.
I am getting halos with Oiii on mag 2.5 stars. I'm considering selling all of my astrodons and chromas to get astronomiks. I've asked Bill to do a gamma Cass test shot with his O3 maxfr filter for a comparison.
Good to know about the halo issues.... Why would you sell Chroma's filters - are you experiencing any issues with them ? I am just asking because I plan to keep mine (LRGB) and only get the SHO MaxFR .
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If I can beat the clouds and rain coming in late tonight I can try to take a shot with my ASI2600 and the MaxFR Oiii filter. I know its not a direct comparison between a 130mm refractor and the 160 but it would be interesting (to me at least) to see how the results look compared between f/3.3 and f/7 ( I just have the flattener on my refractor right now and not the reducer).
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Aygen:
Kaptas Attila:
If i would go for mono what for filters would you recommened for Epsilon? My camera is defect and i have to send it back to Germany, maybe when they cant fixed it i am gonna ask for a change in.
Thank you for any advices.
Best
Attila
I'm using astrodon NB and chroma LRGB.
I am getting halos with Oiii on mag 2.5 stars. I'm considering selling all of my astrodons and chromas to get astronomiks. I've asked Bill to do a gamma Cass test shot with his O3 maxfr filter for a comparison.
Good to know about the halo issues....
Why would you sell Chroma's filters - are you experiencing any issues with them ? I am just asking because I plan to keep mine (LRGB) and only get the SHO MaxFR . Backspacing is absurdly critical with this scope, and mixing filter thicknesses is a no go.
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