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Since I was a 240 month old baby, I have been really indecisive between choosing an IDAS NBZ II, an L-Extreme F2, and an Antila ALP-T, for my F/5 Newt and 533mc pro. All three are really good, but I want the best for my needs. The filter I'm looking for has to have these things: 1. Best nebular transmission for F/5 2. No halos 3. Good contrast, enough contrast so that I can image in full moon. 4. Bandpasses not so narrow that it filters out so much color that it makes the nebula look fake or, like splattered red paint. Like, for example, look at Bray Falls' discovery images; I don't want the colors monotonous like that; maybe this ideology of mine wont be understood by many? I just want a feeling of depth and realism in my images. 5. 2 inch mounted size Maybe I'm slightly too strict? I've been eyeing the IDAS NBZ II more than the others, but I'm still unsure which to buy. Opinions and experiences wanted. |
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Have look to Antlia ALP-T . No halos, 5nm pass. I am very happy with mine |
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John Stone: Is it similar to the Antlia ALP-T? I saw no halos in ALP-T images from multiple people. I like the 3nm Player One filter, 170 coatings is cool, but $500 is a bit overpriced for me. I would say, my budget is no more than $350. |
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Oh, wow, the images coming from the Player One filter are incredible. Player One, sadly, overpriced their filter though. |
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I think I'm leaning towards buying the ALP-T. The transmission doesn't look very good compared to the NBZ-I (according to some spectrum transmittance test graphs), but visually, the images look more contrasty, and also it seems like the ALP-T has less halos than the NBZ-I, but the NBZ-II might be better than the NBZ-I. I'll wait one more day for opinions and recommendations. If I'm not convinced by then to buy another filter, I'll just buy the ALP-T and hope it works good for me. (edited) |
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My L-eXtreme (not F2) is good down to f/4 and likely down to f/2.8 too. No major halos that I can see and it's way cheaper than the competition. The ALP-T would be a good choice but I'm not gonna spend that kind of money for a friggin' filter.
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andrea tasselli: They have a normal Extreme and an F2 Extreme, but they're both the same price. So my question is: Does the F2 one have any disadvantage over the normal one? Why are they the same price if the F2 one is only an upgrade from the normal one? |
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Not here or pretty much everywhere in Europe. It is nearly twice as much so not something to consider lightly. Usually filters for steep (fast) line cones have a shifted band-pass (as well as slightly reduce transmission, less in R more in B) so using on slower system would further reduce the transmission across the FOV.
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andrea tasselli: So what I think I can comprehend you're saying is, a normal L-extreme would be better for F/5, than the F2 L-extreme? |
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So what I think I can comprehend you're saying is, a normal L-extreme would be better for F/5, than the F2 L-extreme? Yes. |
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Thanks! Will buy the L-extreme. |
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Thanks! Extreme is a good filter. I sold mine though , because of not so nice halos around bright stars. If halos do not bother you , L-Extreme is not bad choice. I have ALP-T , and it is much better (no halos whatsoever) . |
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Stjepan Prugovečki:Thanks! Errrrr, mmmmm, okay, if my wallet allows it; but, I mean, not a very big jump in price... Yeah, why not? Alright, ALP-T it is! I especially would like imaging things like the Gamma Cas nebula, and I want to have the bright star in the frame. No halos for me. |
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I got Gamma Cass in the frame and no halo what-so-friggin'-ever. And not even with the L-eXtreme, it was with the L-eNhance which is more prone to produce halos (with red-orange stars). The point being that it's the combination of optics and filters that produces halos, not just the filter.
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Hello, I did a review of the Optolong L-para and compared it with the IDAs nbz-ii, which is a direct competitor of the Idas NBZ-II, and it has a lower price. It seems, also, that it could produce even less halos than the NBZ II. Here it is. I did the review together with the Kolari drop in empty filter, which is very interesting option for those who want to use astro filters on mirrorless cameras. Hope it helps. Intro The emergence of drop-in filter systems has revolutionized the use of astronomical filters on mirrorless cameras. However, until now, commercial options for this type of system were limited to IDAS filters, the only ones available with an integrated drop-in frame. But recently, a new product from Kolari Vision has emerged that has changed the landscape: the Empty Drop-In Filter, which allows any standard 2" astronomical filter to be inserted into it (and therefore also into the drop-in system). Although Kolari states on its website that this frame is designed for both its drop-in system and the Canon one, we have found that it also works perfectly with the Meike MK-EFTE-C drop-in adapter, which greatly expands its usefulness, allowing it to be used not only with Canon cameras but also with Sony and Nikon cameras. Thus, the Kolari Empty Frame is a very interesting option, as it allows you to use not only a huge number of astronomical filters, but also reuse the filters you already have for your dedicated cameras and/or telescopes.=imageParagraph Kolari empty frame + 2" astro filter from Optolong View: original size=imageParagraph Kolari frame inserted in the Meike Drop in adapter Canon EF to Sony E mount View: original size Kolari empty frame The construction of the Kolari blank frame is very good. It combines metal and high-quality plastic. Insertion into the drop-in system is snap-fit, ensuring it is securely fastened and sealed, preventing light from leaking in. The frame itself has a second threaded internal frame that serves to hold the inserted filter. This thread can be unscrewed and re-screwed once the filter is in place using an included tool that inserts into the two slots in the second frame. This tool is also useful, of course, for unscrewing and removing the glass from any standard 2" astronomical filter that has this attachment system, which most filters do. I have personally tested the Kolari blank frame alongside the Optolong L-Para filter, which I discuss below.=imageParagraph Kolari empty frame View: original size Optolong L-Para The Optolong L-Para is a new generation dual-band filter designed for color cameras. It captures Ha and OIII simultaneously, with a bandwidth of 10nm in both cases. It is, therefore, a quite restrictive filter, very powerful and effective in highlighting the reddish colors of the night sky and oxygen-rich regions, even with fast, wide-angle lenses. Regarding its transmittance, it is around 85% from f2 onwards and, according to Optolong, it also has very powerful contrast, anti-halo and light pollution emission blocking characteristics. With these characteristics, the L-Para is a direct competitor to the IDAS NBZ-II, which is considered, today, a reference dual-band filter. Regarding the Idas, and still on paper, the Optolong L-Para has slightly wider Oiii and Ha bands (10nm compared to 8nm for the Oiii and 10nm for the H-alpha of the NBZ-II). Personally, I bought it in 2" so that, as explained, I could remove the glass from its frame and place it in the empty Kolari frame, where it fits perfectly, and so that, in the future, if the need arises, I could use it in a filter-holder system for telescopes.=imageParagraph Optolong L-Para 2 View: original size Results and impressions The results obtained with the L-Para have been very good. The filter has proven to be very effective at capturing H-alpha, blocking light pollution, and producing highly contrasted and saturated bicolor images (blueish/greenish and red). The images obtained are very similar to those obtained with the Idas NBZ-II, except for some nuances, which is why they will (almost) always have to be combined with RGB images. Compared to the Idas NBZ-II, the Optolong L-Para seems to contrast the image a little more, obtaining a little more structure in the Milky Way nebulae. At the same time, it has a bluer cast and seems to separate the reds of the H-Alpha somewhat more from the rest of the colors (blues and greens). It remains to be seen whether this is due to the "blue shift" (the effect of shifting the filters toward blue tones due to shooting at large apertures) or the filter's own cast. As for the H-alpha capture, it's very similar to that of the NBZ-II. If I had to say something, I'd say it might capture a bit less H-alpha than the NBZ-II at large apertures, but the difference, if it really exists, is minimal. The same goes for image quality, which is very similar in both filters, although it may (just may, again) be slightly superior in the case of those obtained with the NBZ-II. As for halos, I haven't noticed any; while I haven't noticed them with the NBZ-II either, the L-Para does seem to perform better in this regard, according to some reviews by other photographers that can be found on YouTube. Finally, and no less importantly, it's worth noting that the L-Para is currently significantly cheaper than the IDAS NBZ-II, making it a very interesting option considering its performance is very similar to that of the IDAS.=imageParagraph Photograph obtained with the L-Para filter (above), at 11mm, 2.8, ISO 4000 and 2 minutes of exposure, and with basic exposure and white balance settings View: original size Comparison of images obtained with the L-Para filter (top) and the Idas NBZ-II filter (bottom), with uncorrected white balance (left) and corrected white balance (right). A single shot at 11mm, 2.8mm, ISO 4000, and a 2-minute exposure.=viewingOptions View: original size Conclusions Kolari's empty drop-in frame represents an innovative and highly versatile solution, allowing the use of standard 2" astronomical filters on mirrorless cameras. Its compatibility is not limited to the Kolari drop-in system for Canon, or Canon's own, but also extends to the Meike MK-EFTE adapter, making it functional with Sony and Nikon cameras. The frame's build quality is remarkable, combining durable metal and plastic materials. The filter's screw-on attachment system, thanks to the included tool, facilitates filter mounting and removal, allowing for secure, sealed, and light-leak-free use. As for the Optolong L-Para filter, it has proven to be a serious competitor to the IDAS NBZ-II, the current dual-band reference. The L-Para delivers highly contrasted and saturated images and is especially effective in light-polluted conditions and with fast lenses. Although the L-Para's performance is very similar to that of the IDAS NBZ-II—with some differences—it is not surprising that the filter is not suitable for use with other lenses. subtle in contrast, saturation and color separation—, its considerably lower price makes it a very attractive option for astrophotographers looking to maximize results without breaking the bank.=imageParagraph Final result of a panoramic photograph in which the sky is composed of photographs taken with the Optolong L-Para (a single shot per panel at 11mm, f2.8, 2 min, ISO 4000) in combination with RGB photographs (a single shot per panel at 11mm, 2.8, 30 sec, and ISO 800). View: original size Final result of a photograph in which the sky is formed by a photograph taken with the Optolong L-Para (at 11mm, f2.8, 2 min, iso 4000) in combination with an RGB photo (a single shot per panel at 11mm, 2.8, 30s and iso 800). |