I have fought with seized or stuck spacers more times than I can count. I always win, but sometimes it has been an epic battle and I've ruined a couple spacers getting them apart. I recently had a 5mm spacer stuck in my filter wheel. I tried all my usual tricks... and couldnt get it off. It was just narrow enough that my strap wrenches couldn't get purchase on on. Then I used this: https://asgastronomy.com/store/asg-maxq-camera-spacer-removal-tool/It was able to grab the spacer securely, and I easily unthreaded it with no damage to anything. Though I would share this in case it hasnt been mentioned before. Really cool product from ASG that I thought was worth mentioning.
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Thanks! There is one brand of (not to be named but otherwise great :happy-7  focuser whose extenders have a terrible habit of sticking. A strap wrench sometimes works and I managed to get an old style aircraft fuel line pliers (like channel lock with curved, padded jaws) back when Boeing surplus was around that works on smaller ones but this looks to be a better solution!
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if these are 3d printed like some other ones, they do break kind of easily.
some spacers have slots for a "lens wrench"/"camera spanner wrench" but that only helps if you've put the adapter on right-side up (dont ask how i know)
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if these are 3d printed like some other ones, they do break kind of easily.
some spacers have slots for a "lens wrench"/"camera spanner wrench" but that only helps if you've put the adapter on right-side up (dont ask how i know) These look to be using a carbon fiber reinforced filament. I've done a ton of printing with PC-CF, PET-CF and even PETG-CF. These materials are very strong and wont break under normal use. These are beefy parts. You can use this stuff for light duty machine parts. It it was just PETG, which is what most people use then yes.. that stuff breaks easily. If josh sees this he can verify material.
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Rubber grip gloves from Home Depot have never failed me. Still, this is a cool idea.
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Dan H. M.:
Rubber grip gloves from Home Depot have never failed me. Still, this is a cool idea. That's a good idea too. I generally use the rubber disks for opening jars. That works most of the time. I'll have to look at the gloves though.
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Chris White- Overcast Observatory:
if these are 3d printed like some other ones, they do break kind of easily.
some spacers have slots for a "lens wrench"/"camera spanner wrench" but that only helps if you've put the adapter on right-side up (dont ask how i know)
These look to be using a carbon fiber reinforced filament. I've done a ton of printing with PC-CF, PET-CF and even PETG-CF. These materials are very strong and wont break under normal use. These are beefy parts. You can use this stuff for light duty machine parts.
It it was just PETG, which is what most people use then yes.. that stuff breaks easily.
If josh sees this he can verify material. yeah it does depend on the material, that is true. whatever is on scopestuff is very brittle.
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So these are created with a carbon infused PETG-CF. I've used more expensive nylon - CF's and cheaper pla/petgs.
They are pretty thick as well. IF you break one, just let us know, we can get another to you. I've used strap wrenches and others as well, but the problem is when you get down to small adapters. Not diameter wise, but height stack wise. These do pretty good when you have a corrector at 1.5mm thick... or a male/male adapter that is 1mm thick. These are still going to be able to grab those edges.
Also, the handles were designed (in theory) to touch each other on the end to thus avoid over-clamping, bending, or breaking the tool. The idea being you apply consistent pressure around the part and avoid a stressed pinch point. Also, they work great if you sink them into the threads as well. Most of the time we avoid clamping or even thinking of touching threads, but makes for a good clamping surface usually.
not a perfect solution, but another tool to fill a void in some situations.
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Great idea. A dab of lithium grease and strap wrenches have served me well so far, but this is a cool alternative!
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Although the other suggestions can work much of the time , they still sometimes fail. I have tried the rubber faced gloves and strap wrenches and the rubber discs. They work for slightly stuck stuff but for threads that are really stuck, often from threads that were machined with too tight a tolerance, none of those will work. I have had a couple times over the 30 years that adapters simply had to be carefully cut off with a Dremel disc. Even letting WD40 sit overnight then using the above would not let those move.
The one manufacturer I mentioned that machines threads with too tight a tolerance requires silicone grease on every thread or they are pretty much guaranteed to stick and even that does not help maybe 25% of the time. I stopped using their adapters and order from Precise Parts instead - their thread relief is just right so they seldom stick.
As far as the standard measures mentioned, the length of the stuck adapter is often the problem. If the adapter is an inch long or more then strap wrenches and such can work but when you get down to 1/4 or 1/2 inch, things like strap wrenches will just not work since they will slip off the end (not just slip). That is where these appear to be better.
I do have to say I would rather see the handles made with metal since the tougher stuck cases I have seen would likely break even PETG-CF. I have printed things with both that and Bambu PAHT-CF (nylon) and based on how strong that is vs the tougher stuck adapters I have seen, I would be a bit concerned that they would break.
But I have ordered a set since, barring ones with metal handles, they look to be the best one can get at this time.
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Hey, I've actually made a video on this! https://youtu.be/CSgFeSr6x9Y?si=26jWS-2E94Aqdj6gMy steps for stuck adapters is always bare hands -> rubber glove hands -> shoe method -> strap wrench -> put in freezer for 15 minutes and repeat those steps -> dremel slots and use lens wrench tool -> pipe wrench and buy a new adapter after
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I ordered the tool. Getting tired of going to garage to put adapters in vise and using water pump pliers with shop rag to get them apart. I started using a little tiny dab of anti-seize on threads now to keep them slicked up. Didn’t want to do that to my image train but it’s not getting on my imaging parts. Will see how that works.
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Tony Carro:
I ordered the tool. Getting tired of going to garage to put adapters in vise and using water pump pliers with shop rag to get them apart. I started using a little tiny dab of anti-seize on threads now to keep them slicked up. Didn’t want to do that to my image train but it’s not getting on my imaging parts. Will see how that works. Use beeswax instead of anti-seize. It doesn't creep or liquify over time.
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Seems like a good one. If the ring has grooves (which I prefer to buy) I just use a screwdriver and a light hammer to tap it a couple times. This always works, but you will damage the paint.
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I’ve had these for a while now and have used them a few times. There are still some scenarios where the CF just doesn’t grip but most of the time, they work. For the slippery ones, I have some rubber jar openers that fit the bill.
its extra tough when working with 2mm spacers or those damned askar backfocus adjusters (that I no longer use on any of my rigs)
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Well I got the tool and it is fantastic. No more stuck pieces. Works very well, a lot of different sizes present. Highly recommend haven’t used my vise in my garage since I got the tool.
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Hi All, just came across this thread. I have uploaded these type of wrenches for M42 and M48 to Thingiverse last year. Feel free to download and print them by yourself. https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:6819018Best Regards, Nico
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