Sharpcap's ADC Alignment

0.00 texasastrophotography ... · view views · Share link
Hi all, I was recommended in purchasing an ADC for my planetary photography to help with some of the green/red edges around planets due to the atmosphere. After purchasing one though, my mind is just melted away with confusion on how this thing's supposed to be tweaked. I've watched a dozen videos on people adjusting their ADCs, but am still kind of lost on what I'm missing here after many continuous sessions in trying to optimize this thing. I use Sharpcap for my planetary photography and using its ADC alignment tool just confuses me on how to read it, even after reading their docs, so was hoping to find some assistance. I've got the ZWO ADC for context. I've lined up the bubble so that it's "level" and then adjust both the knobs at equal distances... But nothing seems to "change" in the coloring of the ADC alignment tool. Here's an example screenshot of me attempting to use it against Venus: I guess my confusion is: How do I read this and adjust? Regardless of how I move the knobs around, it seems the red is always a larger number than blue... and there's always a heavy green element to one side of the image (as seen above)... Should the numbers be larger, smaller, the same, unequal...? I always assumed smaller + close to equal, but maybe that's where I'm making mistakes. And How do I read the graph on the bottom (Docs don't explain what the arrows mean nor how to make them 'equal', assuming that's the goal)... Basically regardless of how I move the knobs/balance/etc. around on this ADC, I feel like the object moves around significantly, but the colors are always the exact same, or at least very close to it. So yeah any context or help in understanding how to read this and how to properly adjust an ADC through Sharpcap would be really appreciated... Thanks! Like

0.00

...

Hi all,

I was recommended in purchasing an ADC for my planetary photography to help with some of the green/red edges around planets due to the atmosphere. After purchasing one though, my mind is just melted away with confusion on how this thing's supposed to be tweaked. I've watched a dozen videos on people adjusting their ADCs, but am still kind of lost on what I'm missing here after many continuous sessions in trying to optimize this thing. I use Sharpcap for my planetary photography and using its ADC alignment tool just confuses me on how to read it, even after reading their docs, so was hoping to find some assistance.

I've got the ZWO ADC for context. I've lined up the bubble so that it's "level" and then adjust both the knobs at equal distances... But nothing seems to "change" in the coloring of the ADC alignment tool. Here's an example screenshot of me attempting to use it against Venus:

I guess my confusion is: How do I read this and adjust? Regardless of how I move the knobs around, it seems the red is always a larger number than blue... and there's always a heavy green element to one side of the image (as seen above)... Should the numbers be larger, smaller, the same, unequal...? I always assumed smaller + close to equal, but maybe that's where I'm making mistakes. And How do I read the graph on the bottom (Docs don't explain what the arrows mean nor how to make them 'equal', assuming that's the goal)... Basically regardless of how I move the knobs/balance/etc. around on this ADC, I feel like the object moves around significantly, but the colors are always the exact same, or at least very close to it.

So yeah any context or help in understanding how to read this and how to properly adjust an ADC through Sharpcap would be really appreciated...

Thanks!

9.89 andrea tasselli ... · view views · Share link
Use FireCapture. Alternatively increase saturation (a lot) and minimize color fringing acting on the levers. I am assuming that you know how an ADC works, right? Like

8.11 Tony Gondola ... · view views · Share link
Are you using a UV/IR cut filter? What optical system are you using? I would guess that if your system isn't perfectly apochromatic the ADC won't correct for that. Like

9.89 andrea tasselli ... · view views · Share link
After re-reading your OP it may seem that you got confused info about the general working of an ADC, especially the ZWO's one. The bubble level shan't be used in most cases as a way to set up the ADC. The neutral position (opposite levers joined) should be level with the horizon in all instances and at all times. This is especially true and diffcult to get right in practice if you use a newtonian. One point of matter though… You really need an ADC if you are imaging below 50 degrees in altitude, above it you might not need it and even more so at the focaal length of your telescope. Like

9.89

andrea tasselli

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After re-reading your OP it may seem that you got confused info about the general working of an ADC, especially the ZWO's one. The bubble level shan't be used in most cases as a way to set up the ADC. The neutral position (opposite levers joined) should be level with the horizon in all instances and at all times. This is especially true and diffcult to get right in practice if you use a newtonian. One point of matter though… You really need an ADC if you are imaging below 50 degrees in altitude, above it you might not need it and even more so at the focaal length of your telescope.

0.00 texasastrophotography Topic starter ... · view views · Share link
Tony Gondola: Are you using a UV/IR cut filter? What optical system are you using? I would guess that if your system isn't perfectly apochromatic the ADC won't correct for that. Nope, no filters in between. Using a Newtonian, with the Televue 5x (so imaging at 5000mm) andrea tasselli: After re-reading your OP it may seem that you got confused info about the general working of an ADC, especially the ZWO's one. The bubble level shan't be used in most cases as a way to set up the ADC. The neutral position (opposite levers joined) should be level with the horizon in all instances and at all times. This is especially true and diffcult to get right in practice if you use a newtonian. One point of matter though... You really need an ADC if you are imaging below 50 degrees in altitude, above it you might not need it and even more so at the focaal length of your telescope. If this is the case, I think you helped me get some lead onto the problem - I have a newtonian. All the videos I've watched don't use one and the "level it with the horizon" never made sense to me, and this would definitely explain why. Maybe I need to find a guide in regard on how to setup an ADC properly using a newtonian since leveling with the horizon isn't something that I just do. This is where I thoughut the level was supposed to help support with - level it with 'netural' on the two bars and the rotate the train to get it level so it's "level with the horizon". Definition of level is probably being used in two different ways here, though. It also makes me now wonder that if the target's in specific areas of the night sky, it'd explain why the shifting of the two prisms doesn't make a difference in some cases? When shifting both and seeing zero shifts in red/blue (in the image I pasted), I'm wondering if it could be related to that - just spit balling here. As for the mention about using fire capture, I've seen others mention it too... I tried it out but it seemed to not like my PlayerOne camera for some reason (kept refusing to change it to RGB and kept it in B/W)... Perhaps I can give it another try, though. Maybe some updates have fixed whatever issue I ran into back then when I last tried it. I'm also stubborn - I like what I'm used to using and what's worked for me on other things before Just the SharpCap's ADC alignment tool is the only issue I have. Maybe I can use FireCapture just for that and then go back to SharpCap for the rest of my stuff, lol. Edited ... Like

0.00

texasastrophotography

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Tony Gondola:
Are you using a UV/IR cut filter? What optical system are you using? I would guess that if your system isn't perfectly apochromatic the ADC won't correct for that.

Nope, no filters in between. Using a Newtonian, with the Televue 5x (so imaging at 5000mm)

andrea tasselli:
After re-reading your OP it may seem that you got confused info about the general working of an ADC, especially the ZWO's one. The bubble level shan't be used in most cases as a way to set up the ADC. The neutral position (opposite levers joined) should be level with the horizon in all instances and at all times. This is especially true and diffcult to get right in practice if you use a newtonian. One point of matter though... You really need an ADC if you are imaging below 50 degrees in altitude, above it you might not need it and even more so at the focaal length of your telescope.

If this is the case, I think you helped me get some lead onto the problem - I have a newtonian. All the videos I've watched don't use one and the "level it with the horizon" never made sense to me, and this would definitely explain why. Maybe I need to find a guide in regard on how to setup an ADC properly using a newtonian since leveling with the horizon isn't something that I just do. This is where I thoughut the level was supposed to help support with - level it with 'netural' on the two bars and the rotate the train to get it level so it's "level with the horizon". Definition of level is probably being used in two different ways here, though.

It also makes me now wonder that if the target's in specific areas of the night sky, it'd explain why the shifting of the two prisms doesn't make a difference in some cases? When shifting both and seeing zero shifts in red/blue (in the image I pasted), I'm wondering if it could be related to that - just spit balling here.

As for the mention about using fire capture, I've seen others mention it too... I tried it out but it seemed to not like my PlayerOne camera for some reason (kept refusing to change it to RGB and kept it in B/W)... Perhaps I can give it another try, though. Maybe some updates have fixed whatever issue I ran into back then when I last tried it. I'm also stubborn - I like what I'm used to using and what's worked for me on other things before

Just the SharpCap's ADC alignment tool is the only issue I have. Maybe I can use FireCapture just for that and then go back to SharpCap for the rest of my stuff, lol.

Edited ...

9.89 andrea tasselli ... · view views · Share link
Here linked below is a good expo of the ins and outs of ADC operation. I use a rather larger ruler hanging in the middle of the scope front end to see where the altitude and therefore the horizonontal direction is and he is using a tape meter but basically the principle is the same: https://skyinspector.co.uk/atm-dispersion-corrector-adc/ Like

0.00 Mike ... · view views · Share link
This video may help understand how ADC works. He talks quite slowly and clearly. Watch it with the ADC in you hand and he'll show you how it works. https://youtu.be/o_RDejOXsbw?si=zo33G0Ohkz4VsISc As for how to align it with your type of scope goes, I suggest finding help from someone using the same type of telescope equipment you have. The atmosphere acts as a prisim causing red and blue light to reach focus at different points; the ADC tries to correct the alignment of the R and B light. Above 60degrees you probably don't even need to use it since light coming from targets high overhead is passing through much less and more stable atmosphere. Seeing is everything and horrible seeing can't be corrected so I don't waste my time imaging in very poor seeing conditions. Good Luck! Like

0.00

Mike

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This video may help understand how ADC works.
He talks quite slowly and clearly. Watch it with the ADC in you hand and he'll show you how it works.
https://youtu.be/o_RDejOXsbw?si=zo33G0Ohkz4VsISc

As for how to align it with your type of scope goes, I suggest finding help from someone using the same type of telescope equipment you have.

The atmosphere acts as a prisim causing red and blue light to reach focus at different points; the ADC tries to correct the alignment of the R and B light. Above 60degrees you probably don't even need to use it since light coming from targets high overhead is passing through much less and more stable atmosphere. Seeing is everything and horrible seeing can't be corrected so I don't waste my time imaging in very poor seeing conditions.

Good Luck!

0.00 texasastrophotography Topic starter ... · view views · Share link
andrea tasselli: Here linked below is a good expo of the ins and outs of ADC operation. I use a rather larger ruler hanging in the middle of the scope front end to see where the altitude and therefore the horizonontal direction is and he is using a tape meter but basically the principle is the same: https://skyinspector.co.uk/atm-dispersion-corrector-adc/ oh this is genius, I'll have to give that a try. Gonna read through this article in detail - thank you for sharing this. Quickly skimming now and seeing the mention of how the barlow can cause issues too may explain why I don't see major differences when adjusting, too. I'll read the entire thing later instead of skimming, though. Mike: This video may help understand how ADC works. He talks quite slowly and clearly. Watch it with the ADC in you hand and he'll show you how it works. https://youtu.be/o_RDejOXsbw?si=zo33G0Ohkz4VsISc As for how to align it with your type of scope goes, I suggest finding help from someone using the same type of telescope equipment you have. The atmosphere acts as a prisim causing red and blue light to reach focus at different points; the ADC tries to correct the alignment of the R and B light. Above 60degrees you probably don't even need to use it since light coming from targets high overhead is passing through much less and more stable atmosphere. Seeing is everything and horrible seeing can't be corrected so I don't waste my time imaging in very poor seeing conditions. Good Luck! Yep, I checked this video out (first) actually. I think the difference in the scope in this video and how he talks about the horizontal line is where my confusion actually started from lol. I really do appreciate all the responses and feedback everyone - I think this definitely gives me something to work from to (finally) get this right Like

0.00

texasastrophotography

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andrea tasselli:
Here linked below is a good expo of the ins and outs of ADC operation. I use a rather larger ruler hanging in the middle of the scope front end to see where the altitude and therefore the horizonontal direction is and he is using a tape meter but basically the principle is the same:

https://skyinspector.co.uk/atm-dispersion-corrector-adc/

oh this is genius, I'll have to give that a try. Gonna read through this article in detail - thank you for sharing this. Quickly skimming now and seeing the mention of how the barlow can cause issues too may explain why I don't see major differences when adjusting, too. I'll read the entire thing later instead of skimming, though.

Mike:
This video may help understand how ADC works.
He talks quite slowly and clearly. Watch it with the ADC in you hand and he'll show you how it works.
https://youtu.be/o_RDejOXsbw?si=zo33G0Ohkz4VsISc

As for how to align it with your type of scope goes, I suggest finding help from someone using the same type of telescope equipment you have.

The atmosphere acts as a prisim causing red and blue light to reach focus at different points; the ADC tries to correct the alignment of the R and B light. Above 60degrees you probably don't even need to use it since light coming from targets high overhead is passing through much less and more stable atmosphere. Seeing is everything and horrible seeing can't be corrected so I don't waste my time imaging in very poor seeing conditions.

Good Luck!

Yep, I checked this video out (first) actually. I think the difference in the scope in this video and how he talks about the horizontal line is where my confusion actually started from lol.

I really do appreciate all the responses and feedback everyone - I think this definitely gives me something to work from to (finally) get this right

9.89 andrea tasselli ... · view views · 1 like · Share link
oh this is genius, I'll have to give that a try. Gonna read through this article in detail - thank you for sharing this. Quickly skimming now and seeing the mention of how the barlow can cause issues too may explain why I don't see major differences when adjusting, too. I'll read the entire thing later instead of skimming, though. *Yep, that's the way to go. I had to read it in full a couple of times before everything clicked together. What it doesn't say (or at least isn't immediately obvious) is that the scale with the white knurled knob is entirely moveable to where you need it to be (that is, pointing at the horizontal direction) and the null point is when the two levers are overlapping regardless where they are located around the clock but, to allow the maximum possible range of correction, they should always be two ticks away from the hard stop of either prism rotation. In operation I find that the bubble level isn't too reliable as indicator of departure from the horizontal position (that is, if you zeroed the rotation scale beforehand). Like

9.89

andrea tasselli

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oh this is genius, I'll have to give that a try. Gonna read through this article in detail - thank you for sharing this. Quickly skimming now and seeing the mention of how the barlow can cause issues too may explain why I don't see major differences when adjusting, too. I'll read the entire thing later instead of skimming, though.

*Yep, that's the way to go. I had to read it in full a couple of times before everything clicked together. What it doesn't say (or at least isn't immediately obvious) is that the scale with the white knurled knob is entirely moveable to where you need it to be (that is, pointing at the horizontal direction) and the null point is when the two levers are overlapping regardless where they are located around the clock but, to allow the maximum possible range of correction, they should always be two ticks away from the hard stop of either prism rotation. In operation I find that the bubble level isn't too reliable as indicator of departure from the horizontal position (that is, if you zeroed the rotation scale beforehand).

0.00 Art Trail ... · view views · 1 like · Share link
As far as using the Sharpcap ADC Alignment, try asking for help in their forum. They are very helpful. I have used both, Firecapture and Sharpcap (currently) and have had no trouble with the ADC Alignment tool in either. So, maybe it's just your particular setup. Like

1.20 CraigT82 ... · view views · Share link
https://youtu.be/1Fkpu7jmGno?feature=shared short video showing a way to check the horizon angle as seen through the scope. Like

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