Tips for Dark Nebula Processing - LRGB [Deep Sky] Processing techniques · Megsgallery · ... · 10 · 613 · 3

Megsgallery 1.51
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I would love advice/guidance on how to make the best of only one night of shooting LRGB data of a dark nebula in a Bortle 1 sky with some moonlight/noise.   The target was Barnard 150 (seahorse nebula)

Firstly, I’m sure that having more data would improve my image.  I realize one night alone is probably not sufficient to make a truly quality image, and probably having 3-4x more data would help. 

But I’ve seen some folks make great strides with similar conditions to produce passable images just with their post-processing know-how and limited data.  

I’ve tried going through a LOT of Adam Block’s tutorials (which have taught me so much over the past 2 years), but it’s just not concise enough and ultimately he goes on 50 million tangents over hours of explanations when what I really need/want is the macro-level work flow  for LRGB processing on a dark nebula (and then I can drill down to the fine tuning once I understand the major steps).  

Attached is the crappy, gradient,  noisy and terribly color calibrated first pass I was able to come up with after running WBPP in Pixinsight.  

I did use SPCC, DBE, etc.  it’s still gradient filled and ugly.  And I know it’s entirely user error - my fault.  

I know I can do better with the data I already have on hand. 

Please share any tips, tricks, tutorials (other than Adam Block), links, feedback ….. anything to help me improve this crap image would be much appreciated!  

As a side note, I’ve been able to generate great images in Pixinsight when doing narrowband imaging (you can see my limited gallery for examples).   This was my very first attempt at acquiring and processing LRGB data ever.  

And I’ve seen some epic shots of this target like the one I’ve included below for contrast/example —- how the hell did they bring out such great color from the dark, dusty area?

I was shooting with a stellarvue SVX 102T and asi 6200mmpro with zwo LRGB filters.   

MY crappy processing:  

RGB.jpegRGB.jpeg

My goal and inspiration: 
IMG_4515.jpeg
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Hindsight 2.11
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You are right about more data being what is needed for you to get a better result. Unfortunately, there is no post-processing cure for a lack of data when shooting broadband targets. You mentioned you shot that on a moonlit night which is another big problem. I personally don't shoot broadband when the moon is above the horizon. 

I see two things in your images - noise, and gradient issues. You can help reduce noise by reducing the amount you stretch your image and by also running NoiseXterminator. I wouldn't drizzle your subs (if you did) if you don't have that many of them. My only other suggestion for decreasing noise is to generate a synthetic luminance sub by combining your RGB subs with your L sub to get all the luminance data into one sub, then follow some tutorials on LRGB combination strategies; this will help pull the most signal out of your data as possible. PixInsight has a great tutorial for this on their youtube channel. Here is part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eciH4yn3r0Q. Actually I think this just focuses on LRGB combination as opposed to the RGB+L strategy I mentioned, but that is a two part step. Part 1 is create the RGB+L luminance sub and Part 2 is to follow the tutorial linked above. 

As for the gradient, it looks like you have something strange going on - like an improper gradient removal. When dealing with an image that has a lot of stars and a lot of nebulosity, it can help to remove the stars first before doing your gradient correction. There are a number of gradient removal tools but I am mostly familiar with DBE. Remove the stars using whatever script you like - I use StarXterminator, for example. Then on the starless image, set your DBE sample points, targeting areas that have no, or as little nebulosity as possible. The more sample points, the better (in general), but experiment with the number of and placement of sample points. 

You mention you used SPCC but your colors look very off. Lots of green and purple which you should not have. SPCC should be one of the first things you run - either right before or after DBE. You should then run a linked STF stretch and see good looking star colors. Ensure you are running SPCC correctly.
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bluemoon737 3.61
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I'm no expert, but my one word of caution is to be careful about calling something a gradient particularly in areas (such as this) with lots of dust. It wasn't long ago there was someone posting about issues trying to get rid of gradients he couldn't understand when he eventually realized it was actual data from faint dust. Again, no expert but just a word of caution. As you said, you need much more data and in gathering that data it might reveal the "true" cause of your odd gradient. On the flipside, scattered moonlight can/will cause odd gradients…smile
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DalePenkala 19.38
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I agree with both posts here! I shot this a while back and in all honesty I really should reprocess it as I’m sure I could process it better now. Its about 5.5hrs of data in bortle 4 skies with my esprit 100 and 2600mc pro.
https://www.astrobin.com/ci9phg/

1st I’d try to reprocess the data because as last 2 posters commented its got a wierd look to it, however Moonlite can do things like this in my experience.

If your kinda at your best go with it, and you want to take what you have and do 2 things to this variation then I suggest the following.

1) I’d run the “Gradiant Corrretion” process at even just default settings but you can tweak them and get things better but it’s a good start. With this process DBE and ABE are pretty much absolete now.
2) run SCNR to remove the green appearance.
3) then run the script “CorrectMagentaStars”. These 2 steps with help out with the color issue you have.
4) as mentioned you need to run some sort of noise reduction. If you don’t have NXT then use one of the NR tools in PI.

Once you get this done I think it will help get you closer to what your looking for but I will add that more data especially in dark moonless skies will  help you out a ton!

Dale
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astrosavy 0.00
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As others have mentioned, there is no substitute for more high-quality data.  Along those lines, one thing that you might consider is binning.  If you're running the above-mentioned system at bin 1x1 then your resolution will be about 1 arc-sec per pixel.  Going to 2x2 would give you 2 arc-sec - which is not horrible; particularly for this type of target.  This would give you significantly more data for a given period of imaging.

No doubt that processing techniques can make the most of the data that you have … but I've found that there is absolutely no substitute for more quality data
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bluemoon737 3.61
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Here is the thread for the "gradient" that wasn't. 

https://www.astrobin.com/forum/c/astrophotography/deep-sky/anyone-know-whats-going-on-with-this-image/
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Megsgallery 1.51
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Thanks to everyone who has replied already!   Such a great help!

1.  Yes, even though it was a Bortle 1 sky, I do think the moon compromised my luminance data.  By the time I got to RGB, the moon had already set, which helped, but not enough. 

2.  Yes, I did work off of the Drizzle files WBPP generated, so I’m going to go back to the non-drizzled versions and start again —- thanks for mentioning this!

3.  I did indeed combine the LRGB to create a “super luminance” file as Adam Block had suggested, but since I was working off the drizzle files, perhaps that just introduced way more noise.  

4.  I do have Russ Croman’s X apps, but I was so upset with how the processing was going, I didn’t bother to create starless versions or run noise /blur exterminator yet.   I will later tonight/this week off the non-drizzled masters.

5.  Thanks for recommending Gradient Correction as an alternative to DBE/ABE.   I’ll try playing with that, as well —- I saw Adam Block was using it in one of his workflow tutorials

6.  Why SPCC created such ugly colors?  I think perhaps I did a really bad background neutralization and had too high of an upper limit for my preview / region of interest, so I’ll refresh myself on Adam’s tutorials on that specific issue and try again.

7.  I did indeed run SCNR, but thats what made everything turn from a more purple hue to green.  I had no idea there was a script for Correct Magenta Stars, so I’ll totally try running that instead of relying too much on SCNR.   Thanks for this tip!  Is this a Pixinsight native script, or do I need to pull it from an outside repository?

8.  And yes —- I’ll be uber careful when re-processing to make sure I’m not confusing faint dust with gradient.   

You guys are the absolute best for responding so thoroughly and quickly.  
Thanks for the feedback ——- I find it encouraging.   I do think there’s hope, no matter how depressing my first pass was.
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Megsgallery 1.51
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This video was so helpful!  Thank you!

I was applying luminance using the wrong settings in LRGB channel combo, and I was also not making sure my luminance data “matched” the brightness of my RGB master.   I think that was a huge part of what I was doing wrong (among other things). 

Thanks for sending this!   Way easier to follow (and faster) than the Block tutorials.  I love Adam’s videos, but sometimes it’s just …. Too much (and yet not enough).  

Jeff Nibler:
You are right about more data being what is needed for you to get a better result. Unfortunately, there is no post-processing cure for a lack of data when shooting broadband targets. You mentioned you shot that on a moonlit night which is another big problem. I personally don't shoot broadband when the moon is above the horizon. 

I see two things in your images - noise, and gradient issues. You can help reduce noise by reducing the amount you stretch your image and by also running NoiseXterminator. I wouldn't drizzle your subs (if you did) if you don't have that many of them. My only other suggestion for decreasing noise is to generate a synthetic luminance sub by combining your RGB subs with your L sub to get all the luminance data into one sub, then follow some tutorials on LRGB combination strategies; this will help pull the most signal out of your data as possible. PixInsight has a great tutorial for this on their youtube channel. Here is part 1 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eciH4yn3r0Q. Actually I think this just focuses on LRGB combination as opposed to the RGB+L strategy I mentioned, but that is a two part step. Part 1 is create the RGB+L luminance sub and Part 2 is to follow the tutorial linked above. 

As for the gradient, it looks like you have something strange going on - like an improper gradient removal. When dealing with an image that has a lot of stars and a lot of nebulosity, it can help to remove the stars first before doing your gradient correction. There are a number of gradient removal tools but I am mostly familiar with DBE. Remove the stars using whatever script you like - I use StarXterminator, for example. Then on the starless image, set your DBE sample points, targeting areas that have no, or as little nebulosity as possible. The more sample points, the better (in general), but experiment with the number of and placement of sample points. 

You mention you used SPCC but your colors look very off. Lots of green and purple which you should not have. SPCC should be one of the first things you run - either right before or after DBE. You should then run a linked STF stretch and see good looking star colors. Ensure you are running SPCC correctly.

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DalePenkala 19.38
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Thanks to everyone who has replied already!   Such a great help!

1.  Yes, even though it was a Bortle 1 sky, I do think the moon compromised my luminance data.  By the time I got to RGB, the moon had already set, which helped, but not enough. 

2.  Yes, I did work off of the Drizzle files WBPP generated, so I’m going to go back to the non-drizzled versions and start again —- thanks for mentioning this!

3.  I did indeed combine the LRGB to create a “super luminance” file as Adam Block had suggested, but since I was working off the drizzle files, perhaps that just introduced way more noise.  

4.  I do have Russ Croman’s X apps, but I was so upset with how the processing was going, I didn’t bother to create starless versions or run noise /blur exterminator yet.   I will later tonight/this week off the non-drizzled masters.

5.  Thanks for recommending Gradient Correction as an alternative to DBE/ABE.   I’ll try playing with that, as well —- I saw Adam Block was using it in one of his workflow tutorials

6.  Why SPCC created such ugly colors?  I think perhaps I did a really bad background neutralization and had too high of an upper limit for my preview / region of interest, so I’ll refresh myself on Adam’s tutorials on that specific issue and try again.

7.  I did indeed run SCNR, but thats what made everything turn from a more purple hue to green.  I had no idea there was a script for Correct Magenta Stars, so I’ll totally try running that instead of relying too much on SCNR.   Thanks for this tip!  Is this a Pixinsight native script, or do I need to pull it from an outside repository?

8.  And yes —- I’ll be uber careful when re-processing to make sure I’m not confusing faint dust with gradient.   

You guys are the absolute best for responding so thoroughly and quickly.  
Thanks for the feedback ——- I find it encouraging.   I do think there’s hope, no matter how depressing my first pass was.

Use both SCNR and CorrectMagentStars. It’s a native scrip and comes with PI. 

Dale
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SpaceMan-56 1.20
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Thanks to everyone who has replied already!   Such a great help!

1.  Yes, even though it was a Bortle 1 sky, I do think the moon compromised my luminance data.  By the time I got to RGB, the moon had already set, which helped, but not enough.

I have the same scope that you used, the Stellarvue SVX-102T (amongst others) and I shoot from Bortle 1.

I shoot in OSC, with a 2600MC,  and dont use any filters at all.

I also dont bother shooting when the moon is up. the Moon makes my Bortle 1 site more like a bortle 8/9 and destroys the Subs.

Good Luck with the Data, and hope things work out.
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jaydeepappas 0.00
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If you don't mind posting the data, I'd be willing to take a stab at it. I'm sure others would as well. You can check out my profile for some recently-processed LRGB dark nebulae.
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