Just got my camera in a few weeks ago. One of the features of this camera I found very desireable for my remote set-up was the mechanical shutter. That said I haven't been able to find much documentation on it. Available information in the detailed description on the "Product Overview" webpage basically says that the firmware is written such that it is "smart" and avoids unecessary movement. Because of this, it should never cycle enough times to wear out. I am curious how the camera knows you are shooting darks. Is it smart enough that there is something in it's communication with NINA to let it know or do I have to use SIPS to take advantage of the mechancial shutter. I am getting ready to send it off to remote site and would like to get things as nailed down as possible. Thanks! -Scotty P.S. when trying to connect using SIPS I keep getting the following error. any ideas? these are the drivers that came with the thumb drive shipped with the camera.  edit: forgot to mention that despite not being able to connect to SIPS it has been working fine taking lights, flats and biases with NINA.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
As to the drivers, you should go to their website and download the latest. I’ve had a few issues with the drivers on the usb stick when I first got the camera.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Installed drivers from website (8-28-2024 date) and everything auticonfirgured when I opened SIPS! Thanks again!  |
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
When you take darks, that fact is communicated in the ASCOM driver, so the camera knows to leave the shutter closed. I have two C5s and a C3 and they've been flawless in this regard.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Timothy mentioned already.
After each exposure the camera is basically waiting a moment and depending the nature of the next frame requested to expose, it keeps the shutter open (lights, flats) or closed (darks, bias) to avoid unnecessary movements.
great camera, enjoy!
Did you got it as the pro version with industrial sensor?
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
I Alex: Timothy mentioned already.
After each exposure the camera is basically waiting a moment and depending the nature of the next frame requested to expose, it keeps the shutter open (lights, flats) or closed (darks, bias) to avoid unnecessary movements.
great camera, enjoy!
Did you got it as the pro version with industrial sensor? Mr. Alex, I did in fact get the Pro version. Thanks for you reply! my biggest wonder was how the software communicated to the camera that the image it was taking was in fact a "dark"' In older days I just put on a lens cap, covered my scope and shot my frames. The camera was oblivious to my intent. I know that in NINA you can define your exposure type as BIAS, FLAT, DARK AND LIGHT. but i always assumed that was just to put it in the FITS header or even the filename. I never knew it communicated this information back to the camera. By the way I also ordered the version with the enchanced cooling, considering that I am in Texas seemed the thing to do. I also decided "why not also get the GPS module?" should I ever decide to attempt satellite or asteroid photography.  |
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
I see you bought the power extension cable. The stock power cord is too short. I had to make my own extension but glad to see they offer it now. Where about in Texas are you?
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Ken Kattner: I see you bought the power extension cable. The stock power cord is too short. I had to make my own extension but glad to see they offer it now. Where about in Texas are you? Hey Ken! Yes, I told Pavel that I would be running the rig with a PLL Eagle XTM and he still recommended that I run the C3 with its own power supply. Since I had my mount (Paramount MyT) apart to install the MKS6000 upgrade I decided it would be best to buy the extension and I could leave it wired in the mount and disconnect the PSU. I did the same for the Eagle. Now when I break it down I can plug and unplug the power supplies into the extensions that stay in the mount. As for location I so far have only shot from my backyard in Prosper, TX (20 miles north of Dallas) ,which according to the 2015 survey, was Bortle 5 but it has blown up so much I think it has to be Bortle 6 or more by now. At the moment I am still set up in the backyard to test everything out, but this setup will soon be going to Starfront Observatory in Brady, TX.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Ha ha. I was looking at starfront too in order to put a small refractor there. Like a redcat 61. My observatory is south of there near Fredericksburg. Have a couple of scopes in Chile with the C3 and C5 cameras. They have been working great. Really like them. Have an older sbig st11000 on the scope in Texas.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Scotty Maxwell: I told Pavel that I would be running the rig with a PLL Eagle XTM and he still recommended that I run the C3 with its own power supply. I'm definitely cheating here. On my FSQ, I'm running the C3 from a Pegasus PBA. On the TOA, I'm running the C5 from a Pegasus UPBv2. But on the CDK, I'm using the power supply Moravian supplied. Next time I'm out there, I'm going to switch it to the Pegasus UPBv3 I have on the CDK. I like being able to see how much power I'm consuming.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Timothy Martin:
Scotty Maxwell: I told Pavel that I would be running the rig with a PLL Eagle XTM and he still recommended that I run the C3 with its own power supply.
I'm definitely cheating here. On my FSQ, I'm running the C3 from a Pegasus PBA. On the TOA, I'm running the C5 from a Pegasus UPBv2. But on the CDK, I'm using the power supply Moravian supplied. Next time I'm out there, I'm going to switch it to the Pegasus UPBv3 I have on the CDK. I like being able to see how much power I'm consuming. 100% if it wouldn't have been my first remote set-up I might have been a little more willing to risk it. But since the whole reason I went with Moravian was because of all of the camera woes I was having with my current big-named Chinese brand camera (IMX571), I was willing to pay quite a bit more to have a worry-free experience. Specifically connectivity problems where the camera would spontaneously disconnect and then I wouldn't be able to find it until I went out and unplugged it from its USB slot and plugged it into another empty spot and then my PC would find it again. I also have a UPBv2 on my Esprit 120 and a UPBv3 on my EdgeHD11. I really like them both. I would have probably used the UPBv3 on my FSQ106-moravian rig if I would have went with the Optec Sagitta OAG. As it was I decided to go with the Moravian OAG to prevent having to have a bunch of adapters made. After getting it in hand I have to say I wish I would have went with the Optec Sagitta because despite the high quality of thier cameras I was a bit disappointed in the Moravian OAG. The adjustment is poor and I couldn't get it to reach focus with my ASI174mm mini. I had to rob my QHY 5iii174 out of my planetary kit because it had the right spacers to reach focus.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Just a not really related side note. I have a Moravian C3-26000 and I have noted one odd thing.
I get a glow at the bottom of the frame in every first plate solve frame. Not on darks, Bias, Flat, Focus, or regular lights and not on later plate solve frames - ONLY on the first plate solve frame.
It has no effect at all on function but wondered if others have seen this.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Hey Scotty, looking forward to seeing your images from Starfront. What scope are you pairing the camera with and any accessories on the scope?
Thanks!
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Marinos Rrapaj: Hey Scotty, looking forward to seeing your images from Starfront. What scope are you pairing the camera with and any accessories on the scope?
Thanks! Hi Marinos! The rig consist of: Scope: Takahashi FSQ106EDX Focuser: Moonlite Nitecrawler WR35 CAA: Moonlite Sidewinder OAG: Moravian C3 OAG with my QHY 5iii174M EFW: Moravian Large 50mm X 50mm square 7 slot Filters: Astronomik 50mm X 50mm 6nm SHO, Deep Sky LRGB Camera: Moravian C3-61000 pro with Moravian Power supply Flat panel & motor: Primalucelab GIOTTO150 and ALTO1 with small PLL losmandy clamp Mount: Paramount MyT - for weights 3 X 20lb and 1 X 10 lb are available with Paramount power supply PC: PLL Eagle 5 XTM Mounting hardware: PLL 495mm losmandy dovetail plate, PLL Rings Network: Netgear 5 port unmanaged switch Power distribution: Digital Loggers Web pro power strip Monitor camera: Wyze surveillance camera if there's a place for it In the backyard for "stress-testing" until I send it off.  Bill McLaughlin: Just a not really related side note. I have a Moravian C3-26000 and I have noted one odd thing.
I get a glow at the bottom of the frame in every first plate solve frame. Not on darks, Bias, Flat, Focus, or regular lights and not on later plate solve frames - ONLY on the first plate solve frame.
It has no effect at all on function but wondered if others have seen this. Thanks for the heads up for the Moravian Newbie Bill!
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Very nice setup you got there Scotty! I'm still a long ways from getting my dream setup together so it helps me see what others are putting together. Thank you for posting all the information, good luck in your testing and try not too worry too much about it in the end!  |
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.