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I think there's a lot in there but the stars are just taking over the image. You would really benefit by removing the stars and processing them separately.
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So first off, you've got some things going on with stars there. I cant quite put my finger on it because they're quite bright, but it looks like you have tilt in your optical train, the bottom left is far worse than the top. Smaller sensors like the 533 usually don't display tilt errors much since they're so small, so that tells me this is pretty far out of whack. I would do yourself a favor and work on getting your optics aligned, and possibly backfocus dialed in properly before you spend too much time here. As for the processing, you're using a unique filter in which I don't really have experience with, but since it's considered a dual narrow(ish)band filter, I'd extract the red and green channels and use them as narrowband, process them as such. I would not use any sort of color calibration here because the image is not true color. Regardless of approach taken, the image is also extremely noisy. Noise is lack of signal…. so naturally if we don't have enough signal, we should not try to stretch our image as hard. Try relaxing your stretch by at least a factor of two. You'll find the results are much more appealing. |
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I exclusively use a DB filter… in my case I have used the L-eNhance, L-Extreme, and L-Ultimate. My flow is… Crop to remove any artifacts around the edges ImageSolver to get the coordinates associated with the image SpectroPhotometricColorCalibration to correct the star color which will also correct the nebula color BlurXTerminator NoiseXTerminator HistrogramTransformation … a mild amount to the point where you just start seeing the nebula ArcsinhStretch … be careful not to over stretch it. That's my biggest problem and it's impossible to correct later. I'm actually reprocessing images that I now feel are over stretched. StarXTerminator Sharpen the image … I use wavelets to sharpen and have good success IMO NarrowbandNormalization … I just learned about this process and I love it. It really helps to bring out the OIII signal and get the colors you want … HOO, SHO, etc Last items are tweaks to contrast … saturation … brightness Oh … your stars. I agree, they look a little off. But you can reduce them in your stars only image before you recombine. I hope this helps. |
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Brian Puhl: Flexure is when the guide scope and the imaging scope become misaligned due to temperature differences or other factors causing the mounting plate and rings to warp or bend. It will happen slowly over time and cause oval stars in your subs, but the oval stars will be consistent throughout the entire image. In your case, it's mostly bottom left, so flexure is not a factor here. |
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@Phil Eng @Brian Puhl ... I agree with you Phil that the stars seem VERY bloated. How did you focus the image? For comparison, my stars are much smaller than yours and my image is at more magnification. https://www.astrobin.com/wmy85x/ Note that I probably did do some star reduction in this image and it was before I learned about NarrowbandNormalization so it's on my list to redo. |
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Frame rotation would not affect the stars. The only place you would notice rotation would be the edges of the frame where stacking edges appear. What I was talking about was physical tilt of the sensor. One side of the sensor is closer to the corrector than the other, which basically means one side is slightly out of focus and will lead to the oblong stars. Tilt is a pita to deal with when you're new, but you can get tilt plates which are lifesavers. Try opening a single sub, debayered and run scripts>abberation inspector on it. Post a screenshot in here. |
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@Phil Eng @Brian Puhl ... Phil, I have a Skywatcher Quattro 250P and I haven't cleaned the mirror in a couple years. I trust that the flats will take care of any dust bunnies. I would recommend looking at the two sessions of subs using the Blink process in PI. I don't use Siril, I use AstroPixelProcessor and APP wants you to enter and identify your subs from separate sessions. I do not know how Siril handles different sessions. Does ASIair have an automatic focus routine? I use NINA and I trust it's AF routine to give me the best focus possible. BTW ... I love NINA. |
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Hi Phil, you have to use single subs to evaluate your optical train… stacking most likely would mask any issues you want to evaluate
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First off, not a bad image for a beginner. However, this is a TOUGH target. It's much dimmer than other nebulas and requires lots and lots of exposure. So get att least 10 hours before you even start to process. ( trust me its worth it, it makes processing easier too ) Then get pixinsight, and Starexterminator from Russel Croman. its worth every penny... Because you will need to remove those stars to really access all the nebulosity thats underneath. My workflow for something like this goes roughly : Pixinsight, DBE for all filters. Combine RGB, noise red, Star separation save as sep files. Same for Luminance. Same for Narrowband filters. Histogram Transform to sort of halfway of what would be final stretch. BlurX, and another noise red. Then into Photoshop, with RGB STARLESS, RGB STARS. LUM STARLESS, LUM STARS, HA STARLESS, ( we dont need the HA STARS. ) In photoshop all the levels, selective colors, contrast enhancements, combination of channels. ( this includes elaborating with how much of the narrowband signal i want blended or vice versa ) adding the starlayers ( this usually is mostly RGB stars with a little bit of the LUM stars added depending of how much i want) , tweaks in Camera raw filter. Then back to pix for another round of BlurX if needed ( often mostly for starsizes ) and a gazillion of other small edits thats too much to mention, but in a nutshell. But as first step, for you id really try and separate the stars, so you can see what's underneath, and also get more hours of data. here's an image of this target that i revisited today for some new editing. https://www.astrobin.com/full/393468/B/ its with much longer Focal length obviously so much more zoomed in, but this is 30 hours of exposure. |
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I heard someone say, Astrophotography is a black hole that sucks you in deeper and deeper, forever chasing a better and better picture. It's very true, but we all HAVE to start somewhere. And this is a great start. As far as spending money on gear, apps. I def hear ya. But, if I was to choose one thing it would be Pixinsight, as so many use it, there are tons of tutorials. And you can do so much with it. If you want to get decent images, Pix is almost a necessity. Feel free to hit me up with any questions regarding processing. Always happy to help, if i can. cheers Rob |
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I agree Rob … PixInsight is a must… IMO. We all started in humble beginnings and most of us are still learning. I'm willing to help at any time. Tim |
