Free osc data set [Deep Sky] Processing techniques · TiffsAndAstro · ... · 32 · 845 · 7

TiffsAndAstro 1.81
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Tim Ray:
This image Data from Oort Cloud (Dave) from the Cloudy Nights link from this thread. I have never imaged this object so I thought I would give it a go. This is true RGB data with a Ha sub not OSC data with a Ha sub. It falls outside this thread of doing OSC RGB processing, but I thought I would share the result. Nice data. META data was included so a nice Plate-Solve and SPCC was used in the PI workflow. 

Xmas Tree HaRGB.jpg

CS Tim


his data is very nice. Your processing is very nice.

After processing nice data (compared to my own) I've decided it's a LOT easier to process nice data. 
So I'm going to stop processing others and concentrate and improving my own data.

I'm still very grateful to both for making nice data available to learn on. It is as a very useful exercise for me, and I'm sure others.
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AstroTrucker 6.22
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I would continue processing "Bad" data. I classify most of my data as bad. It's the Bad that makes the Good data easy… Bad data is what everyone starts this journey with… it's what is used the quickly help with the learning curve. I have about 100 datasets of various flavors. OSC, OSC-NB, True RGB and True NB all used on various rigs and at different image scales.  I have processed each dataset maybe 30times minimum over the last 3 years. The 2024 versions are superior to the 2021 versions of processing.

My recipe for good data is:
best focus your rig/software and EAF can deliver. I see a big swing in temp throught the night, so I do a focus run every 30minutes

Round stars - best tracking your mount can deliver for your rig. I use an external finder with a 120mini for most but use OAG if needed. PHD2

Software today can fix everything else.

I still use calibration frames. A master-dark from a self-created master-dark library. Flats and Flat-darks.  

i shoot at Unity gain for color/true color and 200 gain when shooting NB

I shoot between 180 and 300secs on most targets. 


Really focus (running intended) on the first two.  In focused, Round stars…

Let your rig eat as many photons as it can. More is more!

CS Tim
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gilghana 5.72
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Tim Ray:
I would continue processing "Bad" data. I classify most of my data as bad. It's the Bad that makes the Good data easy... Bad data is what everyone starts this journey with... it's what is used the quickly help with the learning curve. I have about 100 datasets of various flavors. OSC, OSC-NB, True RGB and True NB all used on various rigs and at different image scales.  I have processed each dataset maybe 30times minimum over the last 3 years. The 2024 versions are superior to the 2021 versions of processing.

My recipe for good data is:
best focus your rig/software and EAF can deliver. I see a big swing in temp throught the night, so I do a focus run every 30minutes

Round stars - best tracking your mount can deliver for your rig. I use an external finder with a 120mini for most but use OAG if needed. PHD2

Software today can fix everything else.

I still use calibration frames. A master-dark from a self-created master-dark library. Flats and Flat-darks.  

i shoot at Unity gain for color/true color and 200 gain when shooting NB

I shoot between 180 and 300secs on most targets. 


Really focus (running intended) on the first two.  In focused, Round stars...

Let your rig eat as many photons as it can. More is more!

CS Tim

I would add sky conditions to your recipe.  In fact I would put it above all your other factors.
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TiffsAndAstro 1.81
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Tim Ray:
I would continue processing "Bad" data. I classify most of my data as bad. It's the Bad that makes the Good data easy... Bad data is what everyone starts this journey with... it's what is used the quickly help with the learning curve. I have about 100 datasets of various flavors. OSC, OSC-NB, True RGB and True NB all used on various rigs and at different image scales.  I have processed each dataset maybe 30times minimum over the last 3 years. The 2024 versions are superior to the 2021 versions of processing.

My recipe for good data is:
best focus your rig/software and EAF can deliver. I see a big swing in temp throught the night, so I do a focus run every 30minutes

Round stars - best tracking your mount can deliver for your rig. I use an external finder with a 120mini for most but use OAG if needed. PHD2

Software today can fix everything else.

I still use calibration frames. A master-dark from a self-created master-dark library. Flats and Flat-darks.  

i shoot at Unity gain for color/true color and 200 gain when shooting NB

I shoot between 180 and 300secs on most targets. 


Really focus (running intended) on the first two.  In focused, Round stars...

Let your rig eat as many photons as it can. More is more!

CS Tim

that's good advice and i mostly think i do all that. but there are obstacles. how do you know when your focus is good enough? i use a bahtinov mask with nina bahtinov mask analyser and with a 500px square box i can't reliably get it below say 3px. the hrf display on my subs in nina seems to vary from say 3.1 down to 2.6. this is with a dslr. is 3.1 bad? hard for a beginner to know. you can look at my gallery and see roughly where im at, but right now i get from about 1130 to 2am (no astro dark this time of year) so trying to get 10 hours of data needs 5 nights. that's like two months
i have been shooting at 180 or 120 secs but now im sticking to 60seconds. if a cloud/plane/satellite/superman flies through my frame at least i only wasted 60seconds my guiding is now around 0.8" and and i dither and drizzle. im pretty happy with my latest posted image though it shows some (i think) tilt which i didn't bother to fix in software, but have now. 
hopefully i just need time to practice and add hours. for example last night i manage 15 x 60sec subs before clouds lol.
one positive point is i can have my gear from  its storage boxes to plugged in ready to start 3ppa in 8 mins. my 3ppa i usually get a claimed < 10" in less than 5 mins.
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TiffsAndAstro 1.81
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Gilmour Dickson:
Tim Ray:
I would continue processing "Bad" data. I classify most of my data as bad. It's the Bad that makes the Good data easy... Bad data is what everyone starts this journey with... it's what is used the quickly help with the learning curve. I have about 100 datasets of various flavors. OSC, OSC-NB, True RGB and True NB all used on various rigs and at different image scales.  I have processed each dataset maybe 30times minimum over the last 3 years. The 2024 versions are superior to the 2021 versions of processing.

My recipe for good data is:
best focus your rig/software and EAF can deliver. I see a big swing in temp throught the night, so I do a focus run every 30minutes

Round stars - best tracking your mount can deliver for your rig. I use an external finder with a 120mini for most but use OAG if needed. PHD2

Software today can fix everything else.

I still use calibration frames. A master-dark from a self-created master-dark library. Flats and Flat-darks.  

i shoot at Unity gain for color/true color and 200 gain when shooting NB

I shoot between 180 and 300secs on most targets. 


Really focus (running intended) on the first two.  In focused, Round stars...

Let your rig eat as many photons as it can. More is more!

CS Tim

I would add sky conditions to your recipe.  In fact I would put it above all your other factors.

all the stuff i mentioned and i didn't even get 'round to thinking of astronomical seeing. dust/pollen high winds, jet stream magic dragons breathing fire. and there's not much i can do about it. im imaging in non astro dark really just for practice i guess.
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AstroTrucker 6.22
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To Gilmore's comment… Seeing determines my rig of choice. I live under the jet stream. One of the many reasons my page lacks any Planetary work… My Samyang rig does a nice job as do the shorter FL refractors.  Still get the best focus and tracking you can muster with rig and universe you are imaging…

To TiffsAndAstro I have never used a mask for focusing. I use Nina, SGP or TSX and a focus motor for electronic focusing… Don't have any advice….
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AstroTrucker 6.22
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Itto 

I did not realize you had 2 different stacks for the M20 M8 data. The first pic I posted was from your older 2021 dataset. This image is with your new 2024 dataset. Still did manual color calibration and aggressive star reduction.  Both datasets are excellent!!!!!!

Thanks again for sharing!

CS Tim

M8 M20 RGB New Data 2024.jpg
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Itto-Ogami 3.81
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Tim Ray:
Itto 

I did not realize you had 2 different stacks for the M20 M8 data. The first pic I posted was from your older 2021 dataset. This image is with your new 2024 dataset. Still did manual color calibration and aggressive star reduction.  Both datasets are excellent!!!!!!

Thanks again for sharing!

CS Tim


Tim, I have to get rid of the old one lol The older version was not properly calibrated but another user wanted it. I went back and calibrated some old data once i learned how to do flats and bias.

As an aside, I wholeheartedly agree with all of the tips you mention above, in particular the importance of good focus. 
TiffsAndAstro:
how do you know when your focus is good enough?


In response to this question,  what I will do when i have to focus manually is zoom in on an area of the shot with small/tiny very close stars, almost completely on top of each other. Keep focusing until the stars split and there is a defined division between the stars. When looked at normally you might not even notice the small degree of focus error in the image, but when zoomed and using small, almost connected stars and keeping them split you'll know when to refocus. normally after an hour or so the stars will start to almost become connected as they bloat slightly from less than perfect focus. 

I use the asiair focus utility, but that being said even after it tells me im at my best focus i still choose the above mentioned stars and adjust on a microfocus level to ensure they are split as mentioned. Hope this helps.

Regards,
Itto (Jim)
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