Hi, I have been using ZWO ASI 585MC for a few DSO imaging sessions with various filters like UV/IR cut, Orion Skyglow, Optolong L-Pro etc. While using filters I found the stacked images from DSS come out heavily Green tinge saturated. Even when I try to manually adjust the Grey point using Photoshop for RGB alignment the star colors still have weird Red+Magenta tint. What should be the issue? I tried both RGB Alignment & Per channel alignment settings in DSS but issues remain for both options. It becomes difficult for me to fix those star colors even in Siril as it does not recognize stars to do Photometric color correction. Need help to fix the issue of White Balance or Green channel setting for the Camera itself instead of fixing it in post-processing. This is how I get as DSS stacked output -  This is after manual Grey point curve adjustment on the above image  Please help... Thanks
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In siril, it's super easy to do color calibration. What I do is I select a small box somewhere on the image where there is no DSOs or stars and I color calibrate the whole image using that one spot, then I do a background extraction, and I get perfectly flat image; it works every time. @Aaron ages? ages to you too sir!  |
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@AaronI done as you mentioned. Got this patchy background. Star colors are also more like faint Magenta.  |
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Well, I think you need flat calibration frames.
And about the magenta-ish star colors, I think that has to do with both, not having enough integration time, and not doing enough processing; it happens with me and I get stars that brownish or with no color, but I've never gone past one hour integration.
I suggest you decrease the brightness of the image to see more clearly the colors of your stars
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Sensors record green at twice the intensity of other colours, when you stretch this small difference ends up in an absolute domination of green.
This is primarily corrected with background extraction/neutralization, color calibration on its own will also give a more neutral result but it will be unnatural.
Calibration subs should have no effect, unless DSS also does background neutralization alongside calibration (I think it does but calls it differently).
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Calibration subs should have no effect, unless DSS also does background neutralization alongside calibration (I think it does but calls it differently). I was recommending flats to remove the donuts from his image (assuming they're removable), not fix any colors. Aren't those donuts from sensor dust?
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Use background extraction first!!!
You don't need any calibration frame on IMX585 (it's a new type of sensor).
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Use background extraction first!!!
You don't need any calibration frame on IMX585 (it's a new type of sensor). You "don't" need DARKS with the new sensors (although a still using them with mine QHY268 because of the hot pixels). You defenly need flats flrames, no mether the sensor you use, especially if your sensor have dust spots, and not shooting in a very dark site.
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You defenly need flats flrames, no mether the sensor you use, especially if your sensor have dust spots, and not shooting in a very dark site It is much better to clean the sensor/lens than to use flats just for dust spots. It is a very long and tedious way to use the nights. And since dust can move around, doing 3minutes x 25 times flats each time can be really time consuming! I would consider BIAS instead since the IMX585 has a high level of shot noise. But to return to the issue at hand, the green is normal to be evident before erasing the background.
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It is much better to clean the sensor/lens than to use flats just for dust spots. It is a very long and tedious way to use the nights. And since dust can move around, doing 3minutes x 25 times flats each time can be really time consuming!
I would consider BIAS instead since the IMX585 has a high level of shot noise. No, it's not, even if it this "cleaning" were practicable which isn't. Flats are taken either as dusk/down flats or using a flat panel and the time required in either cases is a tiny fraction of the actual exposures carried out through the session. Most importantly, flats needs taking to correct for PRNU as well as vignetting. Frankly, I'm not reallly even sure we are talking about the same thing here. Bias signal shall not be confused and does not address "shot noise", which is intrinsic to actual process of capturing quantized data, such as photons. Bias correction only addresses the electronic bias error and relevant noise intinsic in powering the detector's electonics.
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No, it's not, even if it this "cleaning" were practicable which isn't. Cleaning is always a better idea (for a Refractor), and with a tiny sensor like a IMX585 vignetting is CLEARLY not a problem. If you have a Newt IMX585 is not a good Idea.
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andrea tasselli:
No, it's not, even if it this "cleaning" were practicable which isn't. Flats are taken either as dusk/down flats or using a flat panel and the time required in either cases is a tiny fraction of the actual exposures carried out through the session. Agreed wholeheartedly. Even if I spend plenty of time carefully cleaning my sensor, scope lens, etc, etc, there will still be dust on -something- by night's end, especially living in an urban environment. I take my flats immediately after shooting to compensate for anything that has built up on the lens throughout the imaging session, and it makes a substantial difference in image quality during stacking and stretching. You "don't" need DARKS with the new sensors (although a still using them with mine QHY268 because of the hot pixels).
You defenly need flats flrames, no mether the sensor you use, especially if your sensor have dust spots, and not shooting in a very dark site. Also agreed, here. I find a noticeable difference using darks when shooting in Bortle 8+ conditions. If the sensor doesn't benefit majorly from darks in ideal light conditions, that'll be great in the future (moving to Bortle 4 skies in August).
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Maybe I'm very fortunate, I have cleaned sensor 2 times, and NEVER cleaned refractor (maybe with a Newt there is lot different experience), and I leave my telescope out the whole night (minimum 9 hours). Dust on sensor with a closed refractor are nearly zero. (with a IMX585 I don't have to switch sensors). But I don't live in a urban environment, in a bortle 4 sky near my house, and a 3 not so far away.  |
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Maybe I'm very fortunate, I have cleaned sensor 2 times, and NEVER cleaned refractor (maybe with a Newt there is lot different experience), and I leave my telescope out the whole night (minimum 9 hours).
Dust on sensor with a closed refractor are nearly zero. (with a IMX585 I don't have to switch sensors).
But I don't live in a urban environment, in a bortle 4 sky near my house, and a 3 not so far away.  To be fair, the dust ends up on the scope lens, and not the sensor, since I'm shooting with refractors and SCTs. Might get a tiny bit of dust when I transfer from the Evostar 72ED to the C6, but I check for it before putting it on the scope. I almost always have some dust/dirt on the scope lens by night's end, depending on wind conditions. Definitely an advantage for you living away from the city!
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Only for planetary/lunar, but yeah. Haven't noticed any issues with vignette or anything else.
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Calibration subs should have no effect, unless DSS also does background neutralization alongside calibration (I think it does but calls it differently).
I was recommending flats to remove the donuts from his image (assuming they're removable), not fix any colors.
Aren't those donuts from sensor dust?
Yes. I was not referring to your recommendation (with which I agree).
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Use background extraction first!!!
You don't need any calibration frame on IMX585 (it's a new type of sensor).
You "don't" need DARKS with the new sensors (although a still using them with mine QHY268 because of the hot pixels).
You defenly need flats flrames, no mether the sensor you use, especially if your sensor have dust spots, and not shooting in a very dark site.
You don't need anything, doesn't mean it won't improve the result.  In this photo about half the subs are with darks while the other half are with bias. There was no noticeable difference. But that was at 0 degrees with a f/6 instrument, and a rich background. Only two days ago I was doing M97 at f/12. Was like "why is it so noisy" (despite the darks), then realisedI had forgotten to switch on the TEC so temperature was 12 degrees. So darks taken at 0 degrees would not correct adequately, and neither would a master bias. I too used to be of the opinion that you can do without calibration subs. There are cases that this is possible, but overall, I was wrong. Of course, they must be done correctly (which can be quite tricky, especially for flats). Otherwise, it is a very real possibility that they will harm the result. But when done correctly, they really do improve it. And it's not like you have to take them every time. In a closed system with controlled temperature, you can go months with the same master calibration subs. Cheers, Dimitris
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Looks like discussion diverted from main topic.
Still not got the solution for removing Green tint from image capture process?
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In Siril is subsky 1 to subtract the background
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To anyone who says IMX585 doesn't need darks, these stacked images disagree with that statement See the walking hot pixels? Yeah, not a bad idea to take your darks just in case. Both cooled down to -5c btw https://www.astrobin.com/euoofc/https://www.astrobin.com/hvotb1/ |
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andrea tasselli:
In Siril is subsky 1 to subtract the background Furthermore, select Color Calibration from the menu on the left (Image Processing) and click on Background Neutralization and you are done. See also: Colors — Siril 1.2.0 documentationALWAYS READ THE HELP FILES!
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Rafael Amarins:
To anyone who says IMX585 doesn't need darks, these stacked images disagree with that statement
See the walking hot pixels? Yeah, not a bad idea to take your darks just in case. Both cooled down to -5c btw
https://www.astrobin.com/euoofc/
https://www.astrobin.com/hvotb1/ These are not hot pixel, but stuck pixels. Your camera have some serious problem, I have two IMX585 and A LOT of hot pixel but I haven't taken in the last one and a half years a dark, and don't have any problem such yours. (Touptek and ZWO).
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Abhijit Juvekar:
Looks like discussion diverted from main topic.
Still not got the solution for removing Green tint from image capture process? Use grafXpert.
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