Mit meiner Canon 600Da erhielt ich mit Siril farbige Bilder, wenn ich bei den Einsttlungen weder das debayern von oben nach unten noch das Benutzen der bayer Matrix aus dem Dateiheader ankreuze und das Bayer Pattern auf RGGB einstelle.
Mit der ASI 585 MC Pro komme ich mit keiner Einstellung weiter. Ich erhalte immer entweder schwarz-weisse Bilder oder welche mit Farbstich. Kann mir jemend einen Tipp gegen, welche Einsteelungen ich für diese Cam in siril brauche ?
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I have a 585pro. In Siril i just have the option set to RGGB and it works fine. Are you processing manually or using a script? If you are getting a green color cast, that's normal. Clicking the little unlinked stretch icon will correct that. Doing a background neutralization within color calibration will fix that as well.
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[pre]Thank you for your immediate reply, I will test it out.
With my EOS600Da I get nice blue color within NGC7032, With 585MC Pro there is no blue, I have read I need a UV/IR-Filter, Do you use one ?
Reiner[/pre]
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For broadband color I would certainly use a UV/IR cut, that should help a lot with your color balance. That's assuming you have dark skies and don't need more aggressive filtration.
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Thank You very much, I will try it !
Reiner
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WEnn ich in Siril mit RGGB debayere kommt ein Bild ohne Blautöne mit viel beige/braun dabei heraus. Liegt es en den Einstellungen oder am Filter ? Reiner  |
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Hast Du das Bild nach dem stacken Farbkalibriert? So etwas wie Spectographic Colour Calibration(SPCC) funktioniert hervorragend.
Ohne entsprechende Kalibrierung sind die Ergebnisse immer falsch.
Viele Grüße,
Stephan
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The thing to remember is that your DSLR does a lot of internal processing to make a normal image look good, even raw images. Your new camera isn't going to do any of that so it's all up to you to do through processing. Here are the steps I would do in Siril to get a good neutral color balance.
Stack your image. The final stacked image will be really green because the RGGB array has twice as many green pixels as any other color.
Auto-stretch the image
Go to Color Calibration - Photometric Color Calibration
Under Image Parameters enter the object designation such as M31 or NGC2159…
Click-Find
Enter the focal length in mm and pixel size in microns for your system
Click-Ok
If this fails as it can for a number of reasons then do this:
Draw a square somewhere in your image that's just blank sky
Go to Color Calibration - Color Calibration
Click on - Use Current Selection
Click on - Background Neutralization (you should see the image color become balanced) (DO NOT click on OK, just close the window)
As an optional step, if the image still has a green cast then click on - Remove Green Noise and click - Apply
The above steps will bring you image very close to a neutral color balance.
When you have the basic color balance you can go on to stretching, sharpening, noise reduction, etc…
To get your final color balance and saturation you'll need to finish up your image in a photo editor like PhotoShop, GIMP, or Affinity Photo.
Hope that helps!
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Thank You very much for the Detailed Instructions. I appreciate it.
I will try my best !
Reiner
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Jetzt hab ich mehrfach gespiegelt und nomad gegen Spaß getauscht, bis die photometrische Farbkalibrierungfunktioniert hat und siehe da, das Blau ist aufgetaucht !  I tried a Lot until Calibration wirken, and Now the Blue Color inside appeared ! thank you !!
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Reiner A. Merz:
Jetzt hab ich mehrfach gespiegelt und nomad gegen Spaß getauscht, bis die photometrische Farbkalibrierungfunktioniert hat und siehe da, das Blau ist aufgetaucht !
I tried a Lot until Calibration wirken, and Now the Blue Color inside appeared !
thank you !! That's great news! It's a bit of a transition from the DSLR but I think you'll like it.
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Now it's time for some noise reduction. Graxpert NR works extremely well and it's free.
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Yes, the Moon was bright an the street lamp too, the seeing was bad, but i wanted to test my new APO125 !
Thanks for the Info, I will Test Graxpert. Reiner
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I mit GraXpert hat das Entraudchen sehr gut funktioniert !!! Grüsse Reiner
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Nice, you are making good progress.
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I can only read English and Spanish so I am unsure what your comments/questions are but I can piece together a few things and comment.
1. Yes you need at least an IR/Cut filter with that camera.
2. I see some stacking artifacts in your images you may want to crop that about before trying to remove gradient in the images, It will help the algorithms
3. I see some bloat in the stars that might mean you focus is off a bit, but it could be something else in your optics, but you have a nice scope.
I dont believe it to be tracking because they still seem round
You are doing quite well, congrats,
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1. Today I assembled my filder holder with an Omegon 1,25" UV/IR-Filter
2. I will try to crop the picture, when its stacked. That is obvious !u
3. I boght this telescope two weeks ago. It was tested from the seller. The seeing was awesome, the moon 3/4 bright and the weather was not the best. I will try the hole thing, when the conditions will be better. The only reason to do this is to reach the blue color in the nebula, and that happened, so I am glad, waitung for clear skies !!
Reiner
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Can I combine a UV/IR-Filter with a CLS-Filter ?
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The CLS Filter should already have an UVIR cut Filter integrated. But you may want to check transmission graphs from the manufacturer to be sure. Stacking Filters can lead to issues. But you can try.
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Reiner A. Merz:
Can I combine a UV/IR-Filter with a CLS-Filter ? There are 2 kinds of CLS filters, CLS with NIR pass and CLS-CCD which blocks UV/IR. Depending on which one you have and what you are trying to do, you might need to stack filters. The ASI585MC does not have an IR blocking window and is very sensitive to NIR. However, I would stay away from CLS for dark nebulae or galaxies. You can use CLS for emission nebulae in heavy light pollution (bottle 6-8). I have used Astronomik UHC-E as a clip in filter for my Nikon Z to save costs but when I went to ASI585MC, I switched to Astronomik L3 which is a UV-IR Cut/Luminance filter. When stacking with Siril and using GraXpert, I do not use RGB Equalization (check box in the stacking menu). Gradient removal will take care of that. I only use photometric color calibration (PCC) on Luminance data, before any stretching and removing stars. Then separate out stars with StarNet++ plugin in Siril. Process nebulosity to taste without stars, stretching each color channel as desired. Then recombining in Siril. Do not use PCC on NB/Duo filter stacks.
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Jetzt habe ich einen UV/IR-Filter eingesetzt, 39*180s belichtet und mit GrafXpert eintrauscht. Hat sich doch schon wieder verbessert, oder ? =Y2IQFcNow I've added a UV/IR filter, exposed for 39 x 180 seconds, and added the noise with GrafXpert. It's improved again, hasn't it?  |
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