IMX571 ToupTek 2600mm settings and slightly bright bottom edge in darks ToupTek ATR3 CMOS 26000 KMA · patrice_so · ... · 5 · 486 · 3

patrice_so 7.87
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Hey follow astronomers, 

As the non rebranded version of this Touptek camera seems to be much more popular than the TS-Optics version I just ordered, I allow myself to post this in this dedicated forum too. 

So, I just went ahead with a the TS2600MP mono camera. I will arrive soon. I know try to read some litterature on the best setting to get started. 

So far, I understand that the preferred settings are 
HCG On, 
Gain 100,
HFW Off,
Offset between 75 and 256. 

I am gratefull for any feedback to my initial tests with this new camera. I assume that the settings are identical for the ToupTek ATR3 CMOS 26000KMA.

As you will see below, I identifiy some good initial settings. I also observed a bright bottom edge in darks. I don't take that as an issue, as I will use darks anyway. 

Many thanks and clear skies, 

Patrice
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Blayzer 0.00
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Hi Patrice,I own the color version of that camera.Your settings look similar to mine.I would recommend running a sensor analysis in SharpCap.
This will give you the optimal gain and offset values for your camera.
There are many helpful videos on YouTube explaining how to do this analysis.
 Greetings
Brian
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astronomical_horizon 1.20
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Hello Patrice,
I use this camera for 2 years now (also had the color version) 

So I can tell you for my B5/6 skies and objects that are NOT captured with narrowband or have an extremly bright core, Gain 100 with the HCG and offset of 300 is ideal.
I got an F3.6 system so 60 sec is maximum for me.

If you use narrowband however and your telescope is quite slow, you should use a gain of 200 or 300 with the same offset to get rid of readnoise.

The Low conversation Gain is great for fast optics and bright objetcs like M42 PNs. Of course you can do images with only 10 sec in the HCG, but that causes a lot of data, better is that you use the LGC and do 60 sec so you can use the Fullwell and also the max of dynamic range.

Some expamples:

Touptek 2600mp with an F5 Telescope capturing M51:
Recommended Setting under Bortle 5/6: Gain 100 Offsett 300, 120 sec exposure luminance, HCG

Touptek 2600mp with an F5 Telescope capturing M42:
Recommended Setting under Bortle 5/6: Gain 100 Offsett 300, 60sec exposure luminance, LCG

Touptek 2600mp with an F5 Telescope capturing IC 443:
Recommended Setting under Bortle 5/6: Gain 200 Offsett 300, 300sec exposure H-alpha , HCG

You will get a feeling with it. Very important: Exposuretime needs to be set so long, that the readnoise (horiontal banding) is gone. If the tracking is not accurate enough for longer guiding, up the gain up.

Also please dont cool the camera at max capacity. -10 is enogh and the advantage to -20 is very slim but stressed the camera and can cause some dew.
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patrice_so 7.87
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Dear @Brian,

Many thanks for your answer. I will definitively run the Sharpcap sensor analysis tool and learn to interpret the outcome. 

​​​​​Dear @Marc-Antonio Fischer

Thanks also for the examples. That is very precious. I will use those as a starting point for experimenting.

At the moment, my guiding is excellent so that I use 600s subs with my f4 newtonian, my ASI294MC pro and a 3nm Dual Narrow Band filter. If I understand correctly, I should favor long exposure over gain increase to get rid of read noise when doing narrowband filters. LCG is to be prefered to have long enough subs when the object is very bright. 

I also note to stay at -10°C. It is indeed what I do now with my ASI294MC pro. 

Great thanks. I will hopefully be able to do some testing later in the week and share my experience here. 

CS

Patrice
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patrice_so 7.87
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Hi fellows Touptek users, 

I recieved my TS-Optics Touptek 2600mm this morning, together with the filter wheel and the filters. Tonight was dedicated to camera testing. So far so good. 

After initial testing, I opted for a gain value at 100, an offset value at 200, HFW off, Ultra on, HCG. 

This yields
- biases with mean ADU at 202.392 after stacking, minimal value for an individual sub measured at 29. 
- darks (5s at -10°) with mean ADU at 203.438 after stacking. 
- So far I understand, we want precisely to have close values here, with the former being slightly lower than the latter. So far so good. 

I have a small bright band at the bottom of my darks. This is quite impressive with the STF, but one has to realize that the this correspond to an ADU increase from 203 to 212, which is really marginal. 

Here is the 15s master dark, with auto STF : 
image.png

Here is a stacked 300s dark, where the measured ADU varies from 203 to 217. 
image.png


I am not really worried. First, edges are cropped anyway. Second and most importantly, after more than two years with my 294mc pro, nothing scares you.

I would nonetheless know if you regard this as normal ? 

Thanks & CS

Patrice
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Alexn 12.25
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patrice_so:
Second and most importantly, after more than two years with my 294mc pro, nothing scares you.


This has to be the most truthful statement I've ever seen on Astrobin... 

After 12 months with my IMX294 colour camera, I moved to the ASI 1600MM Pro and was VERY happy with its noise, but then I moved to the IMX571 and any noise people say this camera has or that you need to worry about is HILAROUS! 

I have dark frames for each exposure duration that I regularly run, and honestly, I can add the master dark to my stack or not, it doesn't make much difference at all.... I even put together a narrowband image last week with 3x600s Ha, 3x600s OIII, and 3x600s SII (1.5h total integration) and its MORE than clean enough for me. 

Screenshot 2025-03-04 145915.png
1.5h image of IC2948
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