Takahashi's bad focusers Takahashi Epsilon-130D · Mauricio Christiano de Souza · ... · 34 · 1239 · 25

astromauchrisouza 5.27
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I am an owner of two Takahashi telescope models, one is an E-130D and the other a FSQ-85EDX, with the newtonian being my main setup at the moment. I think it's an unanimity that Takahashi is known for being one high end brand when talking about optics we can buy, and I like both models I own a lot. However, there is one detail that I really get uncomfortable with: the focuser.

This specific part is the achilles tendon of most Takahashi models. I have experienced both of my models having the same issue that ended up making them unusable if no repair is done. So I decided to come here and open a new topic to report this and also leave my dissatisfaction with those not well thought focusers. (Sorry if a topic about this already exists)

The first Takahashi I bought is the FSQ-85EDX back in September 2021. I used it for a very good time in my backyard all clear nights possible.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 16.09.14_c0da97e3.jpg

It delivered very sharp images for months without any problems. I used to leave it covered with a proper telescope cape and under a sunshade to block direct sunlight during the day. I wouldn't leave it in rainy weather though. I'm telling this because I think heat is one of the major contributors to the problem. As I leave in Brazil, we have hot days throughout the entire year, getting up to 40°C on some few. The telescope would reach a temperature higher than ambient (maybe 45-50°C, I estimate), but I never thought it impacted it in any way, as it is very well built with high quality materials. However, heat in excess seems to be able to soften the glue that is used to fix some pieces of the focuser together, and the fact that the weight of the camera and its accessories are making pressure on those pieces all the time, made the glue rip and the pieces to slide in opposite directions (friction) every time it auto-focused. It is a slow process and you don't notice it until the focuser is done and unusable, as it collapses after both pieces lose contact.

Focuser diagram:
(Note: the image may not be accurate and there are two fixed drawtube supports points that I chose not to show to not confuse the diagram)

Sem títuloa.png

The problem:
Glue is ripped off from between the teflon pad that accommodates the drawtube and the metal pad. The teflon pad is dragged out of the its original position due to the friction and starts to appear on the outside. When there is no more contact between the teflon pad and the metal pad, massive tilt appears in the images and the drawtube can lock because it is not parallel to the rest of the focuser body anymore. It is worth to highlight that it took several months on hot weather for this to happen with my FSQ, so it is probable that it takes year for this to happen in a colder environment.

Sem títuloaa.png

The solution for the FSQ85 focuser was to glue both pieces together again. I don't think it is a permanent fix though, the ideal fix would be an upgrade to a feather touch or similar.

Unfortunately I deleted the images that showed the disassembled focuser because this happended 2 years ago with the FSQ. I do have an image for the same problem that also happened with the E-130D, which has a very similar focuser design.

When I bought the E-130D, my second Takahashi telescope, I was already very aware that the stock focuser is not ideal for the precision that F/3.3 requires for sharp images, so buying a new focuser was in the plan and an eventual problem was expected. At that point I already had an observatory and I thought that having a much cooler environment would help to preserve the focuser long enough before I could buy an upgrade, of at least one year.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.13.22_40c918ff.jpg

However, the problem happened again, and much faster than I was expecting. It took only 6 months for it to collapse while being exposed to 30°C inside the observatory, much cooler than what the FSQ85 sustained for much longer. And again I had a paper weight telescope and had to spend money much sooner than I originally planned, which is a quite disappointment, considering how much money we spend on these things and how inaccessible they are over here in South America. I still think the heat was a problem, but the weight should be considered as well.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.11.42_6703575e.jpg
Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.11.43_8423d9de.jpg

The solution this time was to replace the focuser entirely. In a perfect scenario I would have chosen the Optec Leo, but that is way outside my budget (considering the import fees are as high as 100%, not considering other shipment costs), so I bought a 2047 Studio focuser upgrade for it. I liked the quality of the new focuser and I believe it should be a reference for minimum standards (for Epsilon telescopes at least, which are very sensitive to misalignments). Is is also very well thought to not use any glue or anything that can decay in the long term, just stuff made of metal and adjusted by screws.

It just required some modifications on the OTA... I won't elaborate on that because it is off topic, but I can explain what needed to be done to anyone that considers this cheaper option.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 19.18.37_3dde0b3d.jpg
Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 19.18.36_08c1621d.jpg
Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 19.18.37_4af88161.jpg

I believe at this point Takahashi should partner with Feather Touch or something like that (like Stellarvue does with their refractors), or just change their design entirely to something more modern and capable of withstanding large loads of photographic equipment, even if it makes the telescope price slightly higher (in my opinion). At this situation, it is almost mandatory that you order a focuser upgrade as soon as you order a Takahashi.

I like to compare this situation to a car. You dream about buying a specific car and have expectations of how it performs. I believe we all can agree how big of a disappointment it would be to discover that eventually it will fail and will require expensive upgrades that cost a big percentage of what its original price is. I believe telescopes should be no different in that perspective... It is a big shame that Takahashi still chooses to ignore their focuser design flaws and just leave to us consumers to deal with it. There are focuser designs that are much better than those that Takahashi fabricates, and people complain about it a lot on other pages. Some people go as far as sending it back to Takahashi for repair to its officials north american or european representatives or directly to Japan, which is a HUGE inconvenience and just impossible for us in south america for example. The fact that some models doesn't even have reduction also makes the telescope feels cheap, as if it was something that would make the telescope much more expensive to fabricate (yet they still price the reduction upgrade for something that ain't it, just showing how they are making a big profit margin on their focusers).

On the other side, I have to be honest and give them a credit for having high quality optics. I believe both of my telescopes are the best I have ever seen in their category for their price range (there are better optics, but costs much more than a Takahashi). I just feel everyone has to be aware that their focusers are just not made for astrophotography and may even fail at some point even with lighter loads. I won't replace my E-130D, I love it, except the focuser. Just felt it would help to report this problem to the community.
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Rustyd100 5.76
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Wow! And something that could easily be engineered out.
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umasscrew39 13.55
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Very nice write-up, Mauricio.  

I had heard about the FSQ85 EDX focuser issues even before I bought mine, but I wanted the scope for its excellent optics.  To not even deal with this potential problem, I replaced the manual focuser with the Optec ThirdLynx QuickSync TKX right after buying the scope.  I have had great success with the Optec motor focusers on other scopes.  So, this seemed like an obvious thing to do for me as my scope sits high up in my observatory as a piggyback on my C11".    With that said, it does seem ridiculous that a scope of this quality and reputation should have issues with its focuser.  

Regards,
Bruce
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Dave Rust:
Wow! And something that could easily be engineered out.

Agreed! And at this point, it doesn't even need to be engineered out. They could just pretty much 'copy' what others are doing or work from something that is reliable.

Takahashi has people with very good crafting skills, just think of what kind of focuser they could easily come up with. I can imagine people not needing to spend extra on upgrades.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Bruce Donzanti:
Very nice write-up, Mauricio.  

I had heard about the FSQ85 EDX focuser issues even before I bought mine, but I wanted the scope for its excellent optics.  To not even deal with this potential problem, I replaced the manual focuser with the Optec ThirdLynx QuickSync TKX right after buying the scope.  I have had great success with the Optec motor focusers on other scopes.  So, this seemed like an obvious thing to do for me as my scope sits high up in my observatory as a piggyback on my C11".    With that said, it does seem ridiculous that a scope of this quality and reputation should have issues with its focuser.  

Regards,
Bruce

Thanks!

I didn't know about this Optec solution for the FSQ85. Seems very solid and fancy, great work.

It is indeed ridiculous that Takahashi delivers so much in their telescopes talking about optics / materials / craft wise, but such poor design quality for their focusers. Really sad that we need to take it apart and install something else in place. Their focusers are bad but they look good, matching the rest of the OTA.
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CCDnOES 8.34
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Mauricio Christiano de Souza:
I believe at this point Takahashi should partner with Feather Touch or something like that


I was told by the US Tak dealer a few moths ago that they are working to offer a package with a better focuser for the Epsilons. They did not say from who only that it was not Tak or Optec. Apparently not for around a year or so, however.

I am using the Leo with great success, although have not finished an image yet due to our crappy fire season in the Pacific NW - all we get is smoke.
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ManuManu 0.00
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Thank you Mauricio for those detailled explanations. I own both of those scopes for travelling. Indeed for the Epsilon I kept the original focuser (because more compact) and I use the focuser only in one rotation position for imaging and sure collimating.
For the FSQ saving weight by…. discarding the rotator and replace by rings.
I have also some shift on the focuser and will check the pad as you described.
Thank you again
CS
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dunk 1.81
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I had the exact same issue with my Epsilon and like others have upgraded to a Leo - but its an expensive "fix" for sure...IMG_4181.jpeg
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Bill McLaughlin:
Mauricio Christiano de Souza:
I believe at this point Takahashi should partner with Feather Touch or something like that


I was told by the US Tak dealer a few moths ago that they are working to offer a package with a better focuser for the Epsilons. They did not say from who only that it was not Tak or Optec. Apparently not for around a year or so, however.

I am using the Leo with great success, although have not finished an image yet due to our crappy fire season in the Pacific NW - all we get is smoke.

Hm, at least they are trying to offer something else. Let's hope that happens and it is actually a good deal.

About the fires, I know exactly how it is.... Not sure if you know about it, but we had the biggest fires in Brazil recently as well. The sky turned dark and the air is terrible, the news said at some point we had the worst air in the planet for the moment. So no astrophotos over here as well. It is interesting to access satellite images to check the smoke, like GOES.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Dunk:
I had the exact same issue with my Epsilon and like others have upgraded to a Leo - but its an expensive "fix" for sure...IMG_4181.jpeg

Very expensive indeed. Worrying to see others having this issue as well and having to discard the focuser. It makes me think what goes through Takahashi's mind to sell the ultimate astrograph newtonian and use this unreliable design.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Thank you Mauricio for those detailled explanations. I own both of those scopes for travelling. Indeed for the Epsilon I kept the original focuser (because more compact) and I use the focuser only in one rotation position for imaging and sure collimating.
For the FSQ saving weight by.... discarding the rotator and replace by rings.
I have also some shift on the focuser and will check the pad as you described.
Thank you again
CS

Just make sure if it is worth to open it though. I would only take the focuser apart if there's a problem that shows clearly in the images. If the shift you are talking about is introducing great amounts of tilt, then it might be worth to take the risk.

I disassembled mine only after it wouldn't deliver usable data.
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Eteocles 1.51
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I recently upgraded to the Leo and wish I had just gone with it from the beginning. It’s pricey but you have to keep in mind that it includes both a focuser and an (excellent) AF system. I want my focuser to be fire-and-forget. I don’t want to mess with backlash compensation or other nonsense, and the Leo offers just that. The focuser is also surprisingly slim and light, keeping with the portable profile of the e-130D.
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Alexn 12.25
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Its unfortunate, but as I've said a number of times, Takahashi is a company that lives and breathes due to the reputation they earned YEARS ago for optical quality when utilising CCD's with 7~9um pixels…. And their focusers have always been problematic at best, and required replacement even on their expensive models like the TOA-150. 

The other aspect to remember is that due to this hard earned reputation in the late 90's to mid 2000's, their scopes have remained unchanged for nearly a decade, while cameras have improved to the point that a IMX571 sensor has enough pixel resolution to show astigmatism in an FSQ85 or FSQ106, and the correction of the Epsilon scopes, that was perfectly fine across the old KAI-11000M 35mm CCD, now struggles with APS-C sized sensors due to the pixels that are 1/3rd the size.. 

If Takahashi want to retain their position at the top end of astrograph refractors, they are going to need to step it up a notch. 

Legitmiately, my Askar 65PHQ provides as good images as the FSQ85EDX I used to own, and the only way you could tell them apart most of the time, is that when a bright star is in the field, the takahashi has a weird clam shell shaped lens flare where the Askar does not. And I would bet the difference in cost that the FRA600 vs FSQ106 fight would be similar….  Given the FRA600 is less than half the cost of the FSQ106, and the results from them would be largely indistinguishable, and the fact that the FSQ needs a focuser upgrade before use.. These days I think its a pretty hard sell, and the only people buying the cheaper (yes, I know how that sounds, but it is what it is) Takahashi scopes like the FSQ85, and the Epsilons are people who are being lured in by the name and the reputation, and aren't being completely objective about what they want… Sure, if you're buying something like the TOA130 / TOA150, I will grant you, those scopes don't have much in the way of competition… But these days, the FSQ's are in dire need of a new version with updated focusers, and better corrected optics, the Epsilons have needed a new revision for AGES with better focusers and easier collimation process (however I will say the E130 I had briefly held collimation better than any newt I'd ever owned).

These days I would (and have) spent considerably less money on two telescopes than I would used to have spent on one Takahashi and have not felt like I've sacrificed anything… Maybe the Tak 130 would be a bit sharper than my Askar 120 if you're really pixel peeping, but its a $2500 AUD scope vs a $12000AUD scope… So am I willing to pay $10k more for a hint more sharpness at 100% zoom, but a trash focuser by comparison, exceptionally expensive flatteners/correctors, proprietary threaded adapters etc? No… 

If people want Tak scopes to return to their former glory of being the best scopes on the market, people need to stop buying the sub-par scopes they are producing currently.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Alex Nicholas:
Its unfortunate, but as I've said a number of times, Takahashi is a company that lives and breathes due to the reputation they earned YEARS ago for optical quality when utilising CCD's with 7~9um pixels.... And their focusers have always been problematic at best, and required replacement even on their expensive models like the TOA-150. 

The other aspect to remember is that due to this hard earned reputation in the late 90's to mid 2000's, their scopes have remained unchanged for nearly a decade, while cameras have improved to the point that a IMX571 sensor has enough pixel resolution to show astigmatism in an FSQ85 or FSQ106, and the correction of the Epsilon scopes, that was perfectly fine across the old KAI-11000M 35mm CCD, now struggles with APS-C sized sensors due to the pixels that are 1/3rd the size.. 

If Takahashi want to retain their position at the top end of astrograph refractors, they are going to need to step it up a notch. 

Legitmiately, my Askar 65PHQ provides as good images as the FSQ85EDX I used to own, and the only way you could tell them apart most of the time, is that when a bright star is in the field, the takahashi has a weird clam shell shaped lens flare where the Askar does not. And I would bet the difference in cost that the FRA600 vs FSQ106 fight would be similar....  Given the FRA600 is less than half the cost of the FSQ106, and the results from them would be largely indistinguishable, and the fact that the FSQ needs a focuser upgrade before use.. These days I think its a pretty hard sell, and the only people buying the cheaper (yes, I know how that sounds, but it is what it is) Takahashi scopes like the FSQ85, and the Epsilons are people who are being lured in by the name and the reputation, and aren't being completely objective about what they want... Sure, if you're buying something like the TOA130 / TOA150, I will grant you, those scopes don't have much in the way of competition... But these days, the FSQ's are in dire need of a new version with updated focusers, and better corrected optics, the Epsilons have needed a new revision for AGES with better focusers and easier collimation process (however I will say the E130 I had briefly held collimation better than any newt I'd ever owned).

These days I would (and have) spent considerably less money on two telescopes than I would used to have spent on one Takahashi and have not felt like I've sacrificed anything... Maybe the Tak 130 would be a bit sharper than my Askar 120 if you're really pixel peeping, but its a $2500 AUD scope vs a $12000AUD scope... So am I willing to pay $10k more for a hint more sharpness at 100% zoom, but a trash focuser by comparison, exceptionally expensive flatteners/correctors, proprietary threaded adapters etc? No... 

If people want Tak scopes to return to their former glory of being the best scopes on the market, people need to stop buying the sub-par scopes they are producing currently.

I agree with everything you said. I still believe that the FSQs deliver very good image quality though, superior than the chinese branded ones in a few aspects, in my opinion. While it is true that the 85 has the flare problem and all the focuser / adapters inconvenience, and the fact that FSQ does not support large modern sensors, I never could put my hands on a chinese optics that delivered FWHM as tight as the FSQ and chromatic aberration correction at the Takahashi level. However, it is important to note that the chinese are offering a package that is overall better than Takahashi for much less. I would say it is only worth buying a Tak because of the optics and maybe the exclusiveness of being a Tak owner (for those people that always wanted to have one).
Edited ...
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aabosarah 9.31
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Alex Nicholas:
Its unfortunate, but as I've said a number of times, Takahashi is a company that lives and breathes due to the reputation they earned YEARS ago for optical quality when utilising CCD's with 7~9um pixels.... And their focusers have always been problematic at best, and required replacement even on their expensive models like the TOA-150. 

The other aspect to remember is that due to this hard earned reputation in the late 90's to mid 2000's, their scopes have remained unchanged for nearly a decade, while cameras have improved to the point that a IMX571 sensor has enough pixel resolution to show astigmatism in an FSQ85 or FSQ106, and the correction of the Epsilon scopes, that was perfectly fine across the old KAI-11000M 35mm CCD, now struggles with APS-C sized sensors due to the pixels that are 1/3rd the size.. 

If Takahashi want to retain their position at the top end of astrograph refractors, they are going to need to step it up a notch. 

Legitmiately, my Askar 65PHQ provides as good images as the FSQ85EDX I used to own, and the only way you could tell them apart most of the time, is that when a bright star is in the field, the takahashi has a weird clam shell shaped lens flare where the Askar does not. And I would bet the difference in cost that the FRA600 vs FSQ106 fight would be similar....  Given the FRA600 is less than half the cost of the FSQ106, and the results from them would be largely indistinguishable, and the fact that the FSQ needs a focuser upgrade before use.. These days I think its a pretty hard sell, and the only people buying the cheaper (yes, I know how that sounds, but it is what it is) Takahashi scopes like the FSQ85, and the Epsilons are people who are being lured in by the name and the reputation, and aren't being completely objective about what they want... Sure, if you're buying something like the TOA130 / TOA150, I will grant you, those scopes don't have much in the way of competition... But these days, the FSQ's are in dire need of a new version with updated focusers, and better corrected optics, the Epsilons have needed a new revision for AGES with better focusers and easier collimation process (however I will say the E130 I had briefly held collimation better than any newt I'd ever owned).

These days I would (and have) spent considerably less money on two telescopes than I would used to have spent on one Takahashi and have not felt like I've sacrificed anything... Maybe the Tak 130 would be a bit sharper than my Askar 120 if you're really pixel peeping, but its a $2500 AUD scope vs a $12000AUD scope... So am I willing to pay $10k more for a hint more sharpness at 100% zoom, but a trash focuser by comparison, exceptionally expensive flatteners/correctors, proprietary threaded adapters etc? No... 

If people want Tak scopes to return to their former glory of being the best scopes on the market, people need to stop buying the sub-par scopes they are producing currently.

Takahashi has updated some of their scopes to cater for the new small pixel camera. The new E160ED boasts a 3 μm  spot size on the edge of a full frame sensor. The new TOA-130 645 flattener has similar spot size. 

I have imaged with an Askar FRA400 and an AT130ED, and both don't come close to the sharpness of the optics on the Tak. The FWHM values on the Tak are unreal under good seeing conditions. 

But... yea they definitely need to improve on their focusers. It is a shame really.
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Alexn 12.25
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Ashraf AbuSara:
The new E160ED boasts a 3 μm  spot size on the edge of a full frame sensor. The new TOA-130 645 flattener has similar spot size


Absolutely, the updated scopes with a 3um spot size are bang on - and as I said, its the TOA's that have been their absolute stand out telescopes for decades.
I've not tried one of the new E160's yet. I might get one later this year. 

Obviously, I've not tested your FSQ in particular, or the FRA400/AT130ED that you used, however in my use, I know the FSQ85EDX I had in 2011 was no sharper than the 65PHQ I use now (and I did initially use the 65PHQ with the same SBIG that I used in the FSQ85EDX too). 

I have been on the fence about the Sharpstar 150mm f/2.8 newtonian for about a year... Perhaps I'll get the Sharpstar 150 and the E160 and test them head to head... same mount, same camera, same seeing... See if 3x the price results in 3x better image or not...
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aabosarah 9.31
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Alex Nicholas:
Ashraf AbuSara:
The new E160ED boasts a 3 μm  spot size on the edge of a full frame sensor. The new TOA-130 645 flattener has similar spot size


Absolutely, the updated scopes with a 3um spot size are bang on - and as I said, its the TOA's that have been their absolute stand out telescopes for decades.
I've not tried one of the new E160's yet. I might get one later this year. 

Obviously, I've not tested your FSQ in particular, or the FRA400/AT130ED that you used, however in my use, I know the FSQ85EDX I had in 2011 was no sharper than the 65PHQ I use now (and I did initially use the 65PHQ with the same SBIG that I used in the FSQ85EDX too). 

I have been on the fence about the Sharpstar 150mm f/2.8 newtonian for about a year... Perhaps I'll get the Sharpstar 150 and the E160 and test them head to head... same mount, same camera, same seeing... See if 3x the price results in 3x better image or not...

Please do! I really would look forward to that result. Ideally under conditions were neither scopes would be seeing limited, and under optimal conditions (optimal collimation, tilt etc).

I am all for value for money. 
​​
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daywalker
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Mauricio Christiano de Souza:
I am an owner of two Takahashi telescope models, one is an E-130D and the other a FSQ-85EDX, with the newtonian being my main setup at the moment. I think it's an unanimity that Takahashi is known for being one high end brand when talking about optics we can buy, and I like both models I own a lot. However, there is one detail that I really get uncomfortable with: the focuser.

This specific part is the achilles tendon of most Takahashi models. I have experienced both of my models having the same issue that ended up making them unusable if no repair is done. So I decided to come here and open a new topic to report this and also leave my dissatisfaction with those not well thought focusers. (Sorry if a topic about this already exists)

The first Takahashi I bought is the FSQ-85EDX back in September 2021. I used it for a very good time in my backyard all clear nights possible.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 16.09.14_c0da97e3.jpg

It delivered very sharp images for months without any problems. I used to leave it covered with a proper telescope cape and under a sunshade to block direct sunlight during the day. I wouldn't leave it in rainy weather though. I'm telling this because I think heat is one of the major contributors to the problem. As I leave in Brazil, we have hot days throughout the entire year, getting up to 40°C on some few. The telescope would reach a temperature higher than ambient (maybe 45-50°C, I estimate), but I never thought it impacted it in any way, as it is very well built with high quality materials. However, heat in excess seems to be able to soften the glue that is used to fix some pieces of the focuser together, and the fact that the weight of the camera and its accessories are making pressure on those pieces all the time, made the glue rip and the pieces to slide in opposite directions (friction) every time it auto-focused. It is a slow process and you don't notice it until the focuser is done and unusable, as it collapses after both pieces lose contact.

Focuser diagram:
(Note: the image may not be accurate and there are two fixed drawtube supports points that I chose not to show to not confuse the diagram)

Sem títuloa.png

The problem:
Glue is ripped off from between the teflon pad that accommodates the drawtube and the metal pad. The teflon pad is dragged out of the its original position due to the friction and starts to appear on the outside. When there is no more contact between the teflon pad and the metal pad, massive tilt appears in the images and the drawtube can lock because it is not parallel to the rest of the focuser body anymore. It is worth to highlight that it took several months on hot weather for this to happen with my FSQ, so it is probable that it takes year for this to happen in a colder environment.

Sem títuloaa.png

The solution for the FSQ85 focuser was to glue both pieces together again. I don't think it is a permanent fix though, the ideal fix would be an upgrade to a feather touch or similar.

Unfortunately I deleted the images that showed the disassembled focuser because this happended 2 years ago with the FSQ. I do have an image for the same problem that also happened with the E-130D, which has a very similar focuser design.

When I bought the E-130D, my second Takahashi telescope, I was already very aware that the stock focuser is not ideal for the precision that F/3.3 requires for sharp images, so buying a new focuser was in the plan and an eventual problem was expected. At that point I already had an observatory and I thought that having a much cooler environment would help to preserve the focuser long enough before I could buy an upgrade, of at least one year.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.13.22_40c918ff.jpg

However, the problem happened again, and much faster than I was expecting. It took only 6 months for it to collapse while being exposed to 30°C inside the observatory, much cooler than what the FSQ85 sustained for much longer. And again I had a paper weight telescope and had to spend money much sooner than I originally planned, which is a quite disappointment, considering how much money we spend on these things and how inaccessible they are over here in South America. I still think the heat was a problem, but the weight should be considered as well.

Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.11.42_6703575e.jpg
Imagem do WhatsApp de 2024-10-07 à(s) 18.11.43_8423d9de.jpg

The solution this time was to replace the focuser entirely. In a perfect scenario I would have chosen the Optec Leo, but that is way outside my budget (considering the import fees are as high as 100%, not considering other shipment costs), so I bought a 2047 Studio focuser upgrade for it. I liked the quality of the new focuser and I believe it should be a reference for minimum standards (for Epsilon telescopes at least, which are very sensitive to misalignments). Is is also very well thought to not use any glue or anything that can decay in the long term, just stuff made of metal and adjusted by screws.

It just required some modifications on the OTA... I won't elaborate on that because it is off topic, but I can explain what needed to be done to anyone that considers this cheaper option.

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I believe at this point Takahashi should partner with Feather Touch or something like that (like Stellarvue does with their refractors), or just change their design entirely to something more modern and capable of withstanding large loads of photographic equipment, even if it makes the telescope price slightly higher (in my opinion). At this situation, it is almost mandatory that you order a focuser upgrade as soon as you order a Takahashi.

I like to compare this situation to a car. You dream about buying a specific car and have expectations of how it performs. I believe we all can agree how big of a disappointment it would be to discover that eventually it will fail and will require expensive upgrades that cost a big percentage of what its original price is. I believe telescopes should be no different in that perspective... It is a big shame that Takahashi still chooses to ignore their focuser design flaws and just leave to us consumers to deal with it. There are focuser designs that are much better than those that Takahashi fabricates, and people complain about it a lot on other pages. Some people go as far as sending it back to Takahashi for repair to its officials north american or european representatives or directly to Japan, which is a HUGE inconvenience and just impossible for us in south america for example. The fact that some models doesn't even have reduction also makes the telescope feels cheap, as if it was something that would make the telescope much more expensive to fabricate (yet they still price the reduction upgrade for something that ain't it, just showing how they are making a big profit margin on their focusers).

On the other side, I have to be honest and give them a credit for having high quality optics. I believe both of my telescopes are the best I have ever seen in their category for their price range (there are better optics, but costs much more than a Takahashi). I just feel everyone has to be aware that their focusers are just not made for astrophotography and may even fail at some point even with lighter loads. I won't replace my E-130D, I love it, except the focuser. Just felt it would help to report this problem to the community.

would you mind elaborating a bit on the OTA modifications required for the Epsilon?
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dunk 1.81
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would you mind elaborating a bit on the OTA modifications required for the Epsilon?

Possibly the longest thread on Astrobin, but there is a very large amount of information about upgrading the Epsilon focuser here: 

https://www.astrobin.com/forum/c/equipment-forums/takahashi-epsilon-160ed/setting-up-the-e160-ed-for-full-frame-imaging/
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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would you mind elaborating a bit on the OTA modifications required for the Epsilon?


Sure!! The 2047 Studio focuser I bought is compatible with the new E-130D. However, the drawtube is significantly larger than the original one and was hitting the edges of the hole of the OTA which the drawtube goes through. So the problem with this focuser is that it's oversized (maybe 0.5 to 1mm), at least the drawtube part. You can see it touching the tube in the photo below:

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To go around this problem I had to disassemble the both mirrors from the OTA and grind the edges of the focuser hole so the drawtube had space to pass through. I asked an ATM friend (Herik - makes carbon fiber tubes for us) that has the right tools for the job and skills to do it without damaging the entire thing. Here's some photos of the modification we did:

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I am the one helping holding the tube in place.

While it is heart wrenching to see someone doing this to the Epsilon, I have to say we did a pretty good job on the modification. We put all this plastic to prevent iron powder from getting stuck inside the tube and then rusting, and when we were done with the grinding we also made sure to paint carefully with non-reflective black paint those areas, then cleaning for last. In the end you couldn't tell it was modified.

To conclude, I would say that if you have no choice, like me that can't afford an Optec Leo or similar, if you have the endurance to face this little modification, it might be worth it to get this 2047 Studio focuser. However, if you don't want to touch your tube and just change focusers without headaches, it is worth to get the more expensive options.
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daywalker
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I appreciate you sharing that.I have bought the e180 variant of the stido247 focuser and will make a decision once it arrives on If and how I will proceed.
Your right this is something Takahashi should of addressed along time ago.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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I appreciate you sharing that.I have bought the e180 variant of the stido247 focuser and will make a decision once it arrives on If and how I will proceed.
Your right this is something Takahashi should of addressed along time ago.

Glad to help in some way.

I hope yours fits perfectly without any problems. Maybe the E-180 has a bigger hole than the E-130D.... If that's the case, then you should be good and wouldn't need to do anything.
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daywalker
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Mauricio Christiano de Souza:
I appreciate you sharing that.I have bought the e180 variant of the stido247 focuser and will make a decision once it arrives on If and how I will proceed.
Your right this is something Takahashi should of addressed along time ago.

Glad to help in some way.

I hope yours fits perfectly without any problems. Maybe the E-180 has a bigger hole than the E-130D.... If that's the case, then you should be good and wouldn't need to do anything.

The seller is saying no mod required..we shall see.
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tlmaurer63 0.00
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I wish I'd have come across this thread when battling my Tak focuser. It would have saved me a lot of time and frustration. I too picked up a 2006 Epsilon 180ED on the used market and found the focuser to be absolute trash. Simply unusable with the drawtube slop and rotation when racking in and out. Adjusting the grub screws proved to be useless. AstrOasis sold me a really nice pinion replacement that definitively improved the stability and action but nothing for the slop. Tak America can rebuild/refurb them for $200 but I wasn't confident enough to think the rebuild would be enough to mitigate/eliminate focus issues at f/2.8 with large fine pixeled sensors. Optec's solutions were simply out of my budget. I came across 2047Studio and heard good things about their quality. I picked one up new for $600 on Ali (Star Trip store is great!) and gotta say it is fantastic. Build quality, fit and finish is amazing. I've had zero issues since with the 180ED and highly recommend it. I paired it with the new AstrOasis Rose Electric Focuser and get sub micron focusing steps in a really nice compact unit. I'd be happy to answer any questions.
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astromauchrisouza 5.27
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Timothy Maurer:
I wish I'd have come across this thread when battling my Tak focuser. It would have saved me a lot of time and frustration. I too picked up a 2006 Epsilon 180ED on the used market and found the focuser to be absolute trash. Simply unusable with the drawtube slop and rotation when racking in and out. Adjusting the grub screws proved to be useless. AstrOasis sold me a really nice pinion replacement that definitively improved the stability and action but nothing for the slop. Tak America can rebuild/refurb them for $200 but I wasn't confident enough to think the rebuild would be enough to mitigate/eliminate focus issues at f/2.8 with large fine pixeled sensors. Optec's solutions were simply out of my budget. I came across 2047Studio and heard good things about their quality. I picked one up new for $600 on Ali (Star Trip store is great!) and gotta say it is fantastic. Build quality, fit and finish is amazing. I've had zero issues since with the 180ED and highly recommend it. I paired it with the new AstrOasis Rose Electric Focuser and get sub micron focusing steps in a really nice compact unit. I'd be happy to answer any questions.

Good to hear that the 2047Studio focuser worked for you as well. I've been using mine and it is quite good to be able to trust the build quality it has, not having to worry about it failing at some point and having to adjust it over again.
The only con I have about it is that the over exaggerated drawtube size of the focuser blocked the access to the allen screws of the ZWO OAG tilt plate (that faces the focuser), which is really important for fine tuning collimation. I solved it by changing the camera train completely to Player One, as they make the cameras with built in tilt plates with the screws facing backwards, being way easier to access and adjust. I know it doesn't have anything to do with the topic, however, I must say that the build quality of the Player One camera is much superior than ZWO and it is a few hundred dollars less expensive, not going back to ZWO to be honest.
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