Gear advice Celestron EdgeHD 9.25" · Renee · ... · 42 · 618 · 2

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:

Dan Kokinda:

Andrew Rambaut:
But the ASIAIR is an easy way to start out and not too much outlay compared to everything else. Setting up another mini-computer with Nina and remote desktop access would a fun project but may be frustrating to start off.

As far as outlay, I'm pretty sure my Quieter 3C was cheaper than the ASI Air is available.

Regarding the ease of starting out - while I've never used an ASI Air, I understand they sound easy to use.  I agree with your "MAY" , but would posit that the ease of setting up a mini-PC has more to do with the level of comfort with technology than anything.  I personally had zero issues and found the mini-PC quite easy to set up (while following a tutorial, of course).  I feel if you are somewhat technologically challenged, you MAY have difficulty setting up a mini-PC.  If you are comfortable with tech, it will most likely go smoothly.

then go Raspberry Pi and Linux, avoid Windows, its a matter of when not if that cr*p will bite you ... YMMV.

I am a coder and use and Linux (or Mac OS X unix) all the time. I also build stuff with Raspberry Pis. But I do enjoy the simplicity of the ASIAIR and it just works. I spend most of my day coding and using Linux machines and I quite enjoy just being able to do everything touch screen in the rare clear evenings I have - the time to first imaging is short. But as I said, it costs 200 quid so when you want to move on it is not an issue. But I highly recommend it as a way of starting out (assuming you are OK with getting the ZWO camera - which will still work with other computers). 

I really like Nina, and it is a long term project to create a Nina powered remote solution - but I just don't recommend it along with all the other challenges to setting up an astrophotography set up. 

avoid Windows

Good advice in all aspects of life.

this 100% agree

Andrew Rambaut:
Hi, the EdgeHD 925 is a fantastic telescope and is one of the two I use frequently (the other being a short refractor). I use it for both planetary photography and deepsky but I have completely separate hardware for each of these. I am also not that good at planetary photography yet - I haven’t really put the time in. This is just my experiences and others may disagree or have other recommendations. For planetary (or visual) use I attach a Baader Clicklock visual back that I can then put a flip-mirror diagonal with eyepiece and camera. I have this pre-set up and just slot it into the Clicklock. For DSO photography I have a reducer / filterholder / camera setup that I screw on instead of the clicklock. 

1) is there someway to use the ASI2600 DUO or ASI2600-AIR, which has the OAG built in or the OAG and Air built in, but still use the ASI678 at the same time for planets or solar photos so you don't have to buy a separate OAG?

 I have an ASI2600 DUO which I use with the Celestron reducer and generally this works well. The image circle is just large enough to cover most of the off-axis sensor. When imaging galaxies, often away from the star-dense milkyway, it can struggle to find star to track so you have to adjust the centering or rotation to find some. You could switch to a guidescope in these situations but you probably want to try to get the field of view not to be massively wide - just a bit wider than the native focal length of the EdgeHD (you could use the planetary camera with something like a Skywatcher Evoguide - 242mm). But I haven’t tried this so don’t know how well this would work. For planets (which I assume is what you mean when you mention the ASI678) you don’t need guiding as you are doing very short exposures. I would recommend going for a separate ASIAIR as that gives you more flexibility (I use it to control the mount when I am doing planets). 

2) Is there an advantage in using the Starizona Corrector over the Celestron one. I’ve been researching the Hyperstar, but I’m not sure if it’s worth investing in right now, especially if I’m primarily interested in planetary, solar, and lunar photography and plan to do DSO later. If anyone has any thoughts on whether I should change my mind, I’d love to hear them!

 I only have experience of Celestron reducers and they are excellent - can’t compare to Starizona. They give you plenty of back focus to fit stuff in and the field is nice and flat - some vignetting but nothing that can’t be fixed with flats. I had a Hyperstar for my previous EdgeHD 8” and I never used it because installing it and collimating was tedious and then when you want to go back you had to collimate again. The EdgeHD are fantastic for photographing small DSOs and for the price of the Hyperstar you can get a small refractor for large objects. 

3) Does anyone have an experience with flip mirrors? I want to on occasion let the family or neighbors look at what I am seeing on the telescope, but also be able to flip the mirror and take photos. I have not seen a lot of people using them, so I did not know if this was a good or bad idea. I think Meade use to make a very well rated one, but sadly, they are no longer in business.

 I use a Baader flip mirror for this and it works well once you have got the eyepiece and camera to be (relatively) con-focal. A helical focus eyepiece holder (Baader make one) allow small independent adjustments to the eyepiece focus. I have a wide angle finder scope to get the target in view, use the flip mirror eyepiece to centre and then flip to get the camera. 

4) Can you recommend good 2" LRGB and SHO filters that won't break the bank but don't stink? I have seen poorer reviews on the ZWO LRGB filters, but the ZWO SHO filters seem to be rated ok...

 Can’t make recommendations here as I use the colour ASI2600 with some dual narrowband filters (or nothing for galaxies). 

5) I live in Bortle class 4, so light pollution is a bit of an issue, there are some bright street LED lights, but not super terrible. For the future, would the Optolong L-enhance be  good option for light pollution filter? Or do I really need one? Reddit, Cloudy Nights and FB seem to have conflicting info for B4 and LP filters. Maybe an IR/UV Cut filter would be a better choice...

 The ASI2600 has a UV/IR cut window on it so you generally won’t need a separate filter for that. I have tried various filters over the years but for broadband ones haven’t really liked how they distort the colours. I think everyone you ask will have a different opinion on this. Although - are you thinking of planetary imaging here - you were talking before about monochrome for DSOs? For planets you are probably getting other filters (although you can get cheaper 1.25” ones for these). You will probably want a neutral density filter for the moon. 

6) Does anyone have any other suggestions for cameras or gear that either be better or work better? I was torn between the ASI678 and ASI676, but I think the ASI678 has no amp glow.

 Amp glow is not an issue for planetary imaging as you are doing very short exposures. You want to look at pixel size and frame rate (you want to be taking 1000s of frames for lucky imaging). The pixel size will dictate your field of view (i.e., you will get more ‘magnification’ with small pixels but you may reach the limit of resolving power for your scope). Others will probably have better advice here. The other thing that took me a while to get right is focusing. I used to have a ZWO EAF on my primary focusing knob (using their adapter kit). It was fine for planets because you could use the hand controller to do hands free focusing. It was not ideal because of mirror-flop when doing DSO. I managed to find a Moonlite focuser (no longer made I think) and fitted to EAF to this. Then I can get rough focus, lock down the mirror and use the Moonlite for autofocusing. Planets/moon - I just manual focus (which I find really hard to do). I also tried, with some success to create a go-to setup for planets using my equatorial mount (ZWO AM5) so I didn’t need to convert to AZ mode. For this I use a guide scope and camera attached to the ASIAIR - I polar align with this and then plate solve so I can just go to the planet (good for things like Uranus and Neptune). But you need to get really good alignment between the guide scope and main telescope. I think this all goes to show how different planet and DSO photography are and they have nothing much in common other than the telescope itself. It is worth planning all this out as you can end up spending very large amounts stuff to do these two modes of photography. It may be cheaper to have a second telescope (i.e., a Newtonian or refractor) for DSO. Also easier because you can have both set up and tuned.

Andrew, 

Thank you for the extremely detailed reply. I think based on all the replies I have gotten it is obvious the Celestron reducer is the way to go. I did have the Baader flip mirror in my shopping cart, so good to hear that one is a good one.

Thank you for letting me know about the 2600 having the cut window. I totally missed that. I have been planned to do the ASI678 or the 533, but when someone suggested the 2600, I started exploring that instead.

As for 1.25" vs 2", when I was talking to a rep from Mile High, he was suggesting that if I buy filters, just do 2" because then I future proof my setup. Yes, I am planning to do planetary first, I was just hoping to not have to buy something twice. I was looking at a used ASI533MC last week, which included 1.25" filters, and the gentleman told me he was selling because he wants the 2600. I was looking at the ASI678MM and the images people have posted on Astrobin are rather amazing - hence why I was leaning towards the monochrome version, not the color ASI678. 

I will definitely take into consideration your suggestion about a second telescope. 

Again, I sincerely appreciate the time and tremendous effort you took to reply and give me some guidance on what to buy or not to get.

Larry CABLE:
I am not sure the Starizona SCT reducer is compatible with Edge HD scopes, only the regular SCTs...

Thanks Larry, I did not catch that. Ugh. Glad I asked.

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

Thanks, I did pickup a 2x powermate. I had not thought about the 585, but it is 

Larry CABLE:

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

I use the 585 with ether a Baader VIP Barlow or Powermate 2x...

Thank you, @Larry CABLE and @Andrew Rambaut. I had considered the 533, but not the 585. I think this might be a better choice. I did pick up a 2x powermate last week to use with an eyepiece I have, so I have that. 👍

Renee:

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

Thanks, I did pickup a 2x powermate. I had not thought about the 585, but it is 

Larry CABLE:

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

I use the 585 with ether a Baader VIP Barlow or Powermate 2x...

Thank you, @Larry CABLE and @Andrew Rambaut. I had considered the 533, but not the 585. I think this might be a better choice. I did pick up a 2x powermate last week to use with an eyepiece I have, so I have that. 👍

note you will need a special T adapter from Televue to attach your camera to the Powermate: https://www.televue.com/engine/TV3b_page.asp?id=53&Tab=_acc

Larry CABLE:

Renee:

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

Thanks, I did pickup a 2x powermate. I had not thought about the 585, but it is 

Larry CABLE:

Andrew Rambaut:

Larry CABLE:
I use an ASI2600MCP for DSO and the ASI585 for planetary. I guide using a separate guide scope, I like Baader, Optolong, and antlia filters.

I was going to suggest the ASI585 for planetary. I just got one but haven't tried it out yet. For a smaller scope (700mm refractor)  I have a ASI715 which has tiny pixels (and lots of them) which gives more magnification (used with a 2x Powermate) but will be massively oversampled on a 9.25" SCT. Perhaps if the seeing is perfect it might be OK? I defer to more knowledgable people about this. At least the planetary cameras don't cost as much as DSO ones.

I use the 585 with ether a Baader VIP Barlow or Powermate 2x...

Thank you, @Larry CABLE and @Andrew Rambaut. I had considered the 533, but not the 585. I think this might be a better choice. I did pick up a 2x powermate last week to use with an eyepiece I have, so I have that. 👍

note you will need a special T adapter from Televue to attach your camera to the Powermate: https://www.televue.com/engine/TV3b_page.asp?id=53&Tab=_acc

thanks, Larry. I did pick up one of the T adapters. Adapters, Adapters, Adapters. I had to get one for my sony camera too

Renee:
The computer was donated - a friend gave it to me.

Oops.  Missed this part.  Well, it should work just okay, although it's kinda big.  If you can find somewhere to put it, it should work well enough.  But, it says it's limited 40°F to 95°F, so depending on where you live, you might have issues running hot in summer or with it being too cold in winter.  Like I said in my other post, I use mine all year round.  It only has and only needs passive cooling.  I've never run into a temp related issue, with the mini PC that is.  I've had it running where I couldn't maintain my usual -10°C cooling setpoint in summer because the air was too warm, but the mini functioned just fine.  I just had to raise the cooling setpoint for my camera to 0°C for those nights.  On the -5°F nights, the sessions went off without a hitch.

Renee:

Dan Kokinda:

Renee:
The computer was donated - a friend gave it to me.

Oops.  Missed this part.  Well, it should work just fine, although it's kinda big.  If you can find somewhere to put it, it should work well enough.

super jealous of your JMI wheely bar cart!!

Yea I thought I would add that about it being donated. I am not a huge windows fan TBO. I had a connection that was able to hook me up with that computer, so I am obviously not complaining. It is the mini version (8.3 x 8.6 x 2.7 in). I was thinking of attaching it with velcro or something to the leg. A friend put a round wood stabilizer/platform between the three legs of their Celestron tripod. If I did this, I could potentially put it there.

put linux on it!

I can only speak for DSO imaging. For DSO, in my experience, you need off-axis guiding to counteract the mirror flop.

I have the ASI2600MC-Duo and MM-Duo, and can confirm they work well with the EdgeHD 9.25 and the M48 (=product-skuItem #: 93622) T-adapter at F/10 "straight through", with the Celestron reducer at F/7, and with the Hyperstar. I get about 2350 mm, 1660 mm and 515 mm focal length respectively, according to the PixInsight plate solve.

As I think others have noted, the EdgeHD has a built-in corrector, so you just attach a filter and camera. For a reducer, I would think it must be made to work with the unique EdgeHD optics, and the Celestron one is the only choice. In my (admittedly short) experience, I've gotten significantly better angular resolution without the reducer, so I'd recommend not using the reducer unless you need the extra field of view to get the framing you want.

For the Duo guide camera, depending on the filter and configuration, I sometimes need to use a pretty high gain, and I always use 2s or 3s exposures. Guiding with narrowband filters and Hyperstar has no issues. Remember that you need the F/2 rated narrowband filters with Hyperstar.

I've tried OSC with dual-narrowband filter, and monochrome with individual Ha, S-II, O-III filters, on the Hyperstar, and found the sensitivity with monochrome is much better.

I've also used the ASI533 sensors. It's basically the same pixel design but 9MP instead of 26MP. The advantage is all the files are 1/3 the size and the processing is a bit easier. But you need a separate OAG. I use the ASI174MM in this case and like it.

Finally, I'm going to contradict (sorry) @Andrew Rambaut about re-collimating with Hyperstar. I've gone back and forth between the Hyperstar and the secondary mirror many times, and haven't seen the need to re-collimate either one. Tighten the collimating screws on the Hyperstar so that they stay tight with handling, and it will hold its collimation. The EdgeHD secondary holds its collimation fine for me. Do not over-tighten the secondary collimation screws.

(And thank you to everyone on this thread. Very informative.)