High quality moon photography with a reflex [How?] [Solar System] Acquisition techniques · Tomás Andonie · ... · 8 · 666 · 4

Ive found that it works best to use a Barlow (2 or 3x) along with the live zoom feature on your DSLR (if it has one) then create a mosaic using each stacked image you take. You don't have to put long into each image (generally a 30-60s video should work fine, stacked using software such as Autostakkert and sharpened in Registax). Lining up the stacked images to make a mosaic can be done using software but as long as you keep the same rotation in every image and keep track of which areas you have/haven't covered it can be done manually.

That kind of resolution can only really be achieved with the right pixel scale (<.5"/px, and since there aren't really any sensors big enough to cover the entire moon at that scale you will have to make a mosaic) and with lucky imaging to get sharper details and negate the effects of seeing. 

If you also want to get those vibrant colours shown in the image, you could use the sharp mosaic as a luminance layer, then take lower resolution images without a Barlow (Stacking those frames as well to remove noise) and process that to bring out the colours, applying it as a Colour Layer.

You'll want to do it on a night with good seeing and make sure to keep track of all the video files you've captured to make sure you've got everything, especially if you are centering each image manually. Try testing out stacking different % of frames and different sharpening techniques on a single image beforehand to find a way that gets you the best results, then do that for every frame.

By using your current camera and telescope, along with a 3x Barlow (FL of 1950mm) you'd get a pixel scale of ~0.41"/Px which could yeild some good results, along with good seeing and processing. You'd probably have the capture 5-10 Images for a mosaic.

I know people use Registax wavelets for sharpening and photoshop for saturation and fine tuning.

I think the difference in sharpness is likely due to the equipment.

Are you using a coma corrector on your 130EQ? Newtonian telescopes are only sharp in the center of the field of view without a coma corrector, especially at f/5. You can see the stars in your image are comet-shaped. The telescope might need to be collimated as well. 

Your Celestron 130EQ setup captures the lunar detail at 1.24" per pixel. An 8SE plus 1200D has much better sampling of the fine detail (0.44" per pixel) and that allows more aggressive sharpening.

Below is the difference in field of view from each setup, you can use e.g. https://astronomy.tools/calculators/field_of_view/

I am a real novice with astrophotography but am more experienced with a m camera, but managed this with an Altair 115mm and ZWO ASI485;  I took around 16 x 45s videos via ASIAIR (manually moving coverage each time), processed and sharpened in autostakkert to 16 x .tiff files, and merged the .tiffs into one monochrome image using photoshop’s photomerge option.  My only comment to add to the others here would be that having good focus is essential, and to avoid changing focus during the process of capturing the videos.