Hello, I'm currently considering buying a used 8" Edge HD. I would like to use it at its native focal length of f/10 with an IMX571 color camera. However, I'm wondering if it's really worth it for me. I currently also have a 115/805 LZOS, which I use with a Riccardi Reducer at 600mm focal length and an IMX585 camera. You can see the two fields of view in the image. Red represents the LZOS with the IMX585, and yellow represents the Edge HD with the IMX571. The object is M8.  My main question is whether the telescope would really take me much further when imaging smaller objects. For planets, I have a 180/1800 Intes Mak, so I wouldn't be using the Edge HD for that. It would be purely for DS astrophotography. What do you think?
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Do the math, see which one is the better deal (hint: it ain't the LZOS).
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
andrea tasselli:
Do the math, see which one is the better deal (hint: it ain't the LZOS). I already have the Lzos in use with the 585. I would buy the EHD additionally.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
"the better deal" in a figurative sense, I wasn't meaning a purchase option between the two. In other words, which one gives the best SNR for unit integration time.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
The LZOS has a Dawes limit of 1.01 arc sec and the edge 8 has a Dawes limit of .57 arc sec. You’d theoretically be giving yourself the opportunity for twice the resolution. Seeing is going to be a big deal for imaging at that focal length. You’ll be limited to imaging only on nights with good seeing. I think it would be a nice upgrade especially for galaxy season.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Anyscope that increases reach and detail is worth it.
Personnaly, if you are thinking of going to an EdgeHD 8 put up the extra cash and get a 9.25. You will never regret it.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Also, carefully plan for the backfocus requirements on the C8 EdgeHD. It's only 133 mm, which leaves little room for an OAG + filter wheel. With the reducer, it's even less, at 105 mm.
OAG at the 2000mm focal length is maybe not the best option, it becomes difficult to find a guidie star, and meridian flip doesn't help in this regard.
I use parallel guiding quite successfully, which solves both issues (OAG and backfocus requirement).
The C8 is a great instrument despite these points of attention.
My 2 cents.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
I recently bought an EdgeHD 8 and I love it. I took a little work to get it setup and operating smoothly, but I'm enjoying it. I use it with an IMX571 as well.
My region doesn't have the best seeing conditions, so I'm pushing it a little bit there. But with BXT, you can reduce that impact. Not perfect, but I'm happy with it.
If you're using an OAG, a larger frame guide cam (e.g. ASI174MM) is a must.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Rodolphe Goldsztejn:
Also, carefully plan for the backfocus requirements on the C8 EdgeHD. It's only 133 mm, which leaves little room for an OAG + filter wheel. With the reducer, it's even less, at 105 mm.
OAG at the 2000mm focal length is maybe not the best option, it becomes difficult to find a guidie star, and meridian flip doesn't help in this regard.
I use parallel guiding quite successfully, which solves both issues (OAG and backfocus requirement).
The C8 is a great instrument despite these points of attention.
My 2 cents. I've had a C8 HD for about a year and really enjoy it. It's a bargain for the money if you find a good used one. I struggled at first with an Celestron OAG as I found f10 just doesn't work for guiding, even from a Bortle 4 mountaintop. I now have a 60mm guide scope with ASI220 at .5sec and get consistent .3-.6 guiding on my AM5.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
I basically agree.
I forgot to mention a key point: I also use a robotic focuser which consumes significant back focus in the imaging train, around 80mm.
I adopted this solution to benefit fully from the ability to lock down the primary mirror and not worry about meridian flip.
I tested other focusing solutions acting upon the stock focusing button, but was not convinced by the results: the mirror cannot be locked with those solutions.
I finally settled for a Moonlite focuser, which is cleverly designed, and allows imaging with and without the reducer. In the latter case, the backfocus left is really small, well below the usual/standard 55mm.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
As far as I understand the issue with mirrorlock and autofocusing on the SCT basically boils down to the last step of your autofocusing routine. It needs to be counterclockwise to put pressure on the focusing mechanism, which then should basically "lock" the mirror in place. Yes, this is true. There should be an option in your software to "reverse" the focusing mechanism. But I don't think that entirely solves the issue. Reversing the focusing mechanism helps cut out the slack, but I do still notice some image shift throughout the night. AFAIK, the only way to cut out this frame shift is to lock the mirror and attach a moonlite or similar focuser.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
Go for it. Larger aperture + apsc sensor, the gain (tiny objects) in fov may not look much from the comparison above, but the details and resolution will be amazing.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
@Brian As others have mentioned, the EdgeHD 8 is an excellent telescope, and the 0.7 reducer is a fantastic addition. Collimating the setup took some trial and error, but I highly recommend investing in Bob's Knobs and a Tri-Bahtinov mask—both have been incredibly helpful in streamlining the collimation process. In my area, seeing conditions typically range between "okay" and "good." To make the most of this, I bin at 2x2 and use an IMX183 camera, and I’ve been very satisfied with the data I’ve collected so far. Astronomy Tools also endorses this pairing under similar seeing conditions. Currently, I’m imaging M81 and will move on to M82 next. Once the clouds clear, I plan to continue gathering more data.
|
You cannot like this item. Reason: "ANONYMOUS".
You cannot remove your like from this item.
Editing a post is only allowed within 24 hours after creating it.
You cannot Like this post because the topic is closed.
Copy the URL below to share a direct link to this post.
This post cannot be edited using the classic forums editor.
To edit this post, please enable the "New forums experience" in your settings.
