ok, after deactivating/deinstalling the filterwheel in the windows device manager and reconnecting, it is finaly working. And for the record, the wheel is moving in both directions  |
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Hi again, How did you guys close the M2.5 Holes on the OTA side of the filterwheel? In my package they only supplied M2.5x8 screws which i suspect are used to screw the AFW against the camera.   |
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Andreas:
Hi again,
How did you guys close the M2.5 Holes on the OTA side of the filterwheel?
In my package they only supplied M2.5x8 screws which i suspect are used to screw the AFW against the camera.
That's where your OAG attaches. I have a QHY OAG-M attached there. The pattern lines up. You will need more backfocus anyways, so I'd just buy a spacer kit from QHY or similar.
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Not yet, I've only done there might be more popular filter wheels from established brands that have been reviewed more extensively.
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Andreas:
Hi again,
How did you guys close the M2.5 Holes on the OTA side of the filterwheel?
In my package they only supplied M2.5x8 screws which i suspect are used to screw the AFW against the camera.
Hi Andrea, As I do not use OAG, I covered the thread holes with a ZWO darkening ring. I added a M54 spacer on the OTA side, because I attached the camera with screws. Because I miss 1mm spacing normally done with the camera adapter that I do not need. Note that my stainless steel M54 spacer almost cover the thread holes! If it was 1mm bigger in diameter, I could avoid adding the second darkening ring on the OTA side.  CS
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Stephane Perroud:
Hi Andrea,
As I do not use OAG, I covered the thread holes with a ZWO darkening ring.
I added a M54 spacer on the OTA side, because I attached the camera with screws. Because I miss 1mm spacing normally done with the camera adapter that I do not need.
Note that my stainless steel M54 spacer almost cover the thread holes! If it was 1mm bigger in diameter, I could avoid adding the second darkening ring on the OTA side. Hi Stephane, I hadn't realised that the holes on the other side are also open. I think I will also screw the camera to the AFW and use the M54 to M42 adapter on the other side. I will probably seal the OAG holes from the inside with lens head screws. Hopefully no light will get in there. Maybew i will order these ZWO darkening rings. cs
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My AFW stopped working yesterday night. It just keeps spinning forever making N.I.N.A. stall. When I disassembled it and put it together again, it worked but then stopped again after a meridian flip. Has anybody had the same problem?
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Stefan Kellner:
My AFW stopped working yesterday night. It just keeps spinning forever making N.I.N.A. stall. When I disassembled it and put it together again, it worked but then stopped again after a meridian flip. Has anybody had the same problem? I had the same problem. While using it, it made endless spinning sounds. I could hear the little noise of the motor, and after some time, Nina reported that it couldn't change filters.To find out what was happening, I took off the camera and started the filter changes while observing the behavior of the AFW. It turned out that there was one spot where the red rubber ring on the outside of the filter plate couldn't make enough contact with the spinning motor. I turned the ring by a few degrees and have had no problems since. ps. if that's not the problem I am tipping on cables. I last to many nights cause of old and defect usb cables recently.
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I checked all that back and forth. I guess it's a broken solder joint as sometimes it works and then it stops working again after some time. I will return it. I got the ZWO wheel today and I must say the whole design is much better, smaller, lighter, the filter masks are much better, it can be opened with the OAG still attached and it's bidirectional and therefore faster.
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Anderl:
Stefan Kellner:
My AFW stopped working yesterday night. It just keeps spinning forever making N.I.N.A. stall. When I disassembled it and put it together again, it worked but then stopped again after a meridian flip. Has anybody had the same problem?
I had the same problem. While using it, it made endless spinning sounds. I could hear the little noise of the motor, and after some time, Nina reported that it couldn't change filters.To find out what was happening, I took off the camera and started the filter changes while observing the behavior of the AFW. It turned out that there was one spot where the red rubber ring on the outside of the filter plate couldn't make enough contact with the spinning motor. I turned the ring by a few degrees and have had no problems since.
ps. if that's not the problem I am tipping on cables. I last to many nights cause of old and defect usb cables recently. I just got mine and it's brand new but I dropped it almost immediately and it's doing the same spinning thing. I'll take it apart and manually test tomorrow after work and see if I have the same issue.
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I am having same issue with my Touptek AFW. It randomly and unexpectedly start to spin infinitly at NINA command to change filter. Like I mentioned, this behavior is random and I cannot narrow down to a specific pattern. It works for a couple nights and then suddenly this happens. Needless to say how frustrating this is since I missed 3 nights session in total since I have this AFW ( more than 3 months). I cannot work with an unreliable product so I will contact Touptek for support if any solution has been developed (not sure if hardware wise or firmware). I will also ask to return this product as I consider it defective sicne it doesn't work as advertised.
Sebastiano
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The only thing I'd start with is changing cables. It's also about the only thing you can do really. I believe when it's spinning like that, it means it's lost it's ability to home. I would pop it open and make sure the sensors on the board aren't blocked, only other thing I can think of.
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Brian Puhl:
The only thing I'd start with is changing cables. It's also about the only thing you can do really. I believe when it's spinning like that, it means it's lost it's ability to home. I would pop it open and make sure the sensors on the board aren't blocked, only other thing I can think of. I tried different cables (including the one that came with the AFW) but didn't fix. I can check the sensor inside as you suggested but is it easy to locate it? Where is it and how does it look like?
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Brian Puhl:
The only thing I'd start with is changing cables. It's also about the only thing you can do really. I believe when it's spinning like that, it means it's lost it's ability to home. I would pop it open and make sure the sensors on the board aren't blocked, only other thing I can think of.
I tried different cables (including the one that came with the AFW) but didn't fix.
I can check the sensor inside as you suggested but is it easy to locate it? Where is it and how does it look like?
I'm gonna be honest with you here, I don't remember. I do remember this was a recommendation I was given when mine would occasionally switch to the wrong filter. I was told it's a tiny IR sensor. My problem ended up ultimately being the cable, so I never chased this. Maybe open it up and bench test it? Also while you're at it, make sure the O ring on the outside of the filter wheel meshes with the drive motor and it's not slipping. Not saying this isn't a manufacturing defect, but these are the places I'd check first.
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You are right . I ran the FW with the cover case open to see what was happening inside. Now I know exactly what the issue is: slipage!! The motor run but the carosel doen't move because the o-ring is slipping. I put the video here : https://youtube.com/shorts/at7z8W5B9ak?feature=shareNow that I know the WHAT, I need to figure out the WHY. I pulled the oring a bit all around to re-sit it. Also cleaned lightly with alchool to remove any grease residual (if any was there) and straight it out some areas were showed to be a bit twisted (making perhaps the diameter even thiner) . It seems to work better. now I few little slippage still but atleast it catches up eventually instead of running all night!!! Why Touptek doesn't use an o-ring with slightly larger diameter or with a better friction coefficient? I will ask themand also if they can send me a different one. Sebastiano
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Rubber can shrink with lower temperatures. Plus, potentially, tolerances in manufacturing (some larger, some smaller). I got the same FW but I haven't used it much. Good to know, anyhow.
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You are right . I ran the FW with the cover case open to see what was happening inside. Now I know exactly what the issue is: slipage!! The motor run but the carosel doen't move because the o-ring is slipping.
I put the video here : https://youtube.com/shorts/at7z8W5B9ak?feature=share
Now that I know the WHAT, I need to figure out the WHY. I pulled the oring a bit all around to re-sit it. Also cleaned lightly with alchool to remove any grease residual (if any was there) and straight it out some areas were showed to be a bit twisted (making perhaps the diameter even thiner) .
It seems to work better. now I few little slippage still but atleast it catches up eventually instead of running all night!!!
Why Touptek doesn't use an o-ring with slightly larger diameter or with a better friction coefficient?
I will ask themand also if they can send me a different one.
Sebastiano I forgot to reply to myself earlier in the thread months ago but I also had the issue and for me it was because one of my filters was not seated all the way down. For some reason, it being seated not fully into the wheel caused it to spin indefinitely. It was fixed when I screwed in the filter all the way. Maybe your wheel is slipping because a filter is seated a little higher and blocking the wheel from spinning?Nevermind, I watched the video.
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Today I received a feedback from Touptek on the steps to take to fix the issue (as it seems known to them):
You may follow these steps:
①Open the panel of AFW;
②Remove the small circuitboard;
③Loose two hex studs;
④Ajust the position of motor shaft and make its force of friction with rubber band keep in a proper level;
⑤Test the wheel manually whether the wheel rotates smoothly, if not, adjust the position of motor shaft again，if yes, follow step ⑥;
⑥Tighten the hex studs;
⑦Install the circuit board(Pay attention to the placement of the pins);
⑧Connect AFW to your PC and check whether it runs smoothly, if not, you may repeat step ② to ⑤，if yes, you can cover the AFW with its front panel.
I will give it a try and post here an update for everybody benefit that may have incurred into this isse too.
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Hello everyone, I'm reviving this topic because I'm having issues with my Ogma filter wheel. I'm having very strong reflections in my optical train. The more I think about it, the more I think it's due to the filter wheel. Here are 2 different flats I took with the same scope. Left is with an Ogma filter wheel and camera (IMX571 mono), the right is with an ASI2600MC and no filter wheel.  The flats on the left do not calibrate the ring issue I have in my pictures taken with the mono setup (which is sadly located 8000 km away from me at the moment). Here is a simple stack of light frames, without any calibration applied:  I am using 36mm, 3mm thick Astrodon filters, secured by the metal holders that came with the EFW.  Are these the kind of patterns you guys saw when you had these reflection issues? Second question, if I were to keep the camera but add a new filter wheel, which one would be compatible with my Touptek/Ogma camera (with tilter)? I believe someone mentioned the ZWO one Thanks for your help! Konzy
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Have you closed/taped over the threaded holes on the front and rear?
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Yes, I have put extra screws to prevent light leaks. The other side is covered by the tilt plate  |
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What's the diameter of the filter holders (I'm using threaded filters so I don't have them) and what is the distance between the front of the filter holder (toward the scope side) and the sensor and what is your focal ratio?
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Unfortunately I can't measure the filter holders myself, since the scope is now in a remote observatory 8000km away from me What I can say is that the Astrodon filters are 3mm thick, and the holders are made of metal, so they're thicker than the usual plastic ones you see in most filter wheels I am using a ZWO FF80 @ f/7.5 Here are some measurements I found / made. I'm using a tilter.   The tilter is attached to the EFW with 4 screws as per the instructions. The sensor and the filters are as close as they can be. The 6 unused tapped holes on the telescope side are covered with screws, so no light leak is possible from these. No hole on the camera side. I found some pictures I made before sending out the scope.   |
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I guess, with a bit of extrapolation and based on the numbers I have for the AFW, you are just free of vignetting the clear aperture of the filters. So that is out of the table. Then a possible culprit are the filter holders themselves, which appear quite gray in the picture and should really be deep matte black. Other things can also be in the optical train that could give the sort of issues and taking a sky flat (at dusk) might highlight where the issue is (by difference between sky flats and panel flats).
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Thanks Andrea. My thoughts exactly. I have a Takahashi telescope at home, and the pricey adapters they sell are very well painted inside, with a black, mat effect. The cheaper adapters from other brands are often very shiny. The M45/M54 adapters in the imaging train might also contribute to some extent. You can see one of them is quite reflective... I should have painted everything before sending it. I contacted Ogma and Touptek, asked if they could provide some pointers. In the meantime someone from the observatory suggested I get these filter masks: Buckeyestargazer ShopI asked the owner if he makes masks that are compatible with my system. Let's see! In the meantime, I suppose I'll use the scope on small targets and crop everything out. That should be easier to remove in post than these complex circular gradients! I'll try to update this thread, in case it helps someone in this situation. Thanks for your help !
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