Replaced the bottom dovetail with a lightweight CNC one. Aux plates to carbon with the carbon composite FDM rings. Total of 3x aux. carbon plates - 4x rings. Dumped 16lbs of weight.  |
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I would go for the 180. F/2.8 with that aperture is wild.
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Rouz Astro:
Replaced the bottom dovetail with a lightweight CNC one.
Aux plates to carbon with the carbon composite FDM rings.
Total of 3x aux. carbon plates - 4x rings.
Dumped 16lbs of weight.
Questions: 1) Do you know what the total weight of the system with everything shown is (male dove plate and everything "above it")? 2) How well does the little guide scope work with it? I have never been a fan of guide scopes. Too flaky with differential flexure. FYI, I have a lathe and mill so can do my own custom aluminum mounting parts with minimal weight but would use carbon where available.
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Bill McLaughlin:
Rouz Astro:
Replaced the bottom dovetail with a lightweight CNC one.
Aux plates to carbon with the carbon composite FDM rings.
Total of 3x aux. carbon plates - 4x rings.
Dumped 16lbs of weight.
Questions:
1) Do you know what the total weight of the system with everything shown is (male dove plate and everything "above it")?
2) How well does the little guide scope work with it? I have never been a fan of guide scopes. Too flaky with differential flexure.
FYI, I have a lathe and mill so can do my own custom aluminum mounting parts with minimal weight but would use carbon where available. Hi Bill, Not sure about the reason for the little guider. The initial setup was 52lbs - that was with 2x dovetails. We added carbon composite brackets for the Pegasus UPBV2, PPADV box and Mele. 2x extra rings to be at 90 degrees offset for the extra dovetails. Also added 4 Losmandy sized carbon clamps. And 2x extra Losmandy type dovetails to get. After the extra bits, weight was 40lbs. In terms of weight, its hard to beat. There are a lot of mounting parts on the site - Rouzastro.comThis was the most I could load - tested on a small 4inch ring:  |
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When I still had time to do lots of portable imaging at dark sites, I used E180ED for a long period. It's an absolutely powerful beast. The stars can be nearly perfect on a 36MP FF sensor from edge to edge, when collimation is done perfectly. But collimation is the catch. I need to redo the collimation about every 10 trips, and there is no guarantee that I could reach perfection each time. Your mileage can be different since your collimation skill is not necessarily worse (or better) than mine. The road condition and how you transport it can also affect how well the OTA holds collimation. On the other hand, if you have a fixed setup, the collimation becomes much less troublesome. If it's at a dark site, then it will be extremely powerful, once you get the collimation right.
At the end, I sold it because of the tricky collimation and because I felt I had enough. However, I am sure in the future I will try to get another Epsilon. In my 30 years of history of portable imaging, I went back and forth between refractors and Newtonians. So I am sure the E180ED I sold is not the last Newtonian I use.
My experience on FSQ106ED was with a 50MP medium format sensor. It's great once the sensor tilt is dealt with. This can be my go-to scope for portable wide-field imaging. Some people complain about its stars on smaller sensors. I'd never tried it with small-pixel small sensors, so I can't be certain. However, I kind of doubt it has something to do with sensor tilt.
In short, neither one is perfect and is maintenance-free. Either one can be very good for certain use scenarios.
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Rouz Astro:
After the extra bits, weight was 40lbs. OK, I will have to stick with the 130. I am already at max weight with my present secondary system at 22 pounds - 40 would put me well over.
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Rouz Astro:
Replaced the bottom dovetail with a lightweight CNC one.
Aux plates to carbon with the carbon composite FDM rings.
Total of 3x aux. carbon plates - 4x rings.
Dumped 16lbs of weight. 16lbs! That's a serious reduction.
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Rouz Astro:
This was the most I could load - tested on a small 4inch ring: Was the test done to include the withdrawal force for the brass threaded inserts (I assume they are heat pressed into place)? If not, what was that number?
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Bill McLaughlin:
Rouz Astro:
This was the most I could load - tested on a small 4inch ring:
Was the test done to include the withdrawal force for the brass threaded inserts (I assume they are heat pressed into place)? If not, what was that number? *Yes sir, another good question:  |
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Nick Grundy:
Rouz Astro:
Replaced the bottom dovetail with a lightweight CNC one.
Aux plates to carbon with the carbon composite FDM rings.
Total of 3x aux. carbon plates - 4x rings.
Dumped 16lbs of weight.
16lbs! That's a serious reduction. *Thank you Nick, your collaboration has been instrumental! Much appreciated!
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A bit late in the discussion, but my heart goes for the epsilon 160 Ed.
I have it remotely installed in Chile and I am 100% satisfied with it ! I have uploaded so far two images taken with the 160 Ed, and this scope is just a beast when properly setup !
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Rouz Astro:
Here are videos on youtube for: Thanks! That is way strong! I will put those on my list of items to buy. The scope is still several months out so I will probably wait until I know when it is going to show up.
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Nick Grundy:
The epsilon has really been great. (At f3.3 the 160 has been nice) I would note a couple of items though that you may have thought through already
youll likely want to replace the stock focuser. There’s tiny light leak issue and even if you can deal with that, just using an EAF wasn’t enough. I ended up with the optec kit and it’s perfect. (Add another 1500-1800)
tilt was a real issue on the full frame sensor so I tend to favor the AP’s-c. There are a ton of resources on here though and if you got through the sharpstar hnt, you would be able to work it out. You will likely want to get a serious tilt device though. (Asg photon cage or whatever)
the big question is 180 vs 160 Arun H:
Daniel Carter:
I have both a FSQ106 and an Epsilon 160. In my opinion I haven't noticed any difference in any loss of contrast. If anything, I've found my images from the Epsilon tend to be better and easier to process.
People say that reflectors result in a loss of contrast. There is no doubt true that a refractor will be superior to a comparable aperture reflector. But the problem is that it is usually impossible to easily obtain a comparable aperture refractor, certainly when you get to the 160mm range and up. When comparing a 106 to 180, I'd say that the huge difference in aperture matters much more than the loss in contrast. Certainly, I consider the images taken with my 200 mm reflector to be far superior to what I can get with a 92mm refractor. Thanks @Nick Grundy, @Arun H. Thanks for your inputs. It really helps. As pointed, I am now taking a step back and thinking if I should choose Epsilon 160 or 180.
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I appreciate everyone here for providing their thoughts and rationale for selecting their Tak.
It was really helpful to know and use this information to decide my Scope.
Based on my preferences and situation I have decided to buy an Epsilon.
I called the Takahashi North America today and came to know that next cycle of mirror production for Epsilon 160 is going to begin in about 30 days and the wait time is between 3-5 months. Currently the 130 and 180 Epsilon mirrors are being produced.
They helped me understand why the Epsilon 160 might be better suited for my camera.
As a next step I'll order my Tak and plan for the upgrades, accessories and be prepared to face the battle of tilt.
Again, I appreciate everyone's help here.
Thanks,
Deepan
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Deepan Vishal:
I appreciate everyone here for providing their thoughts and rationale for selecting their Tak.
It was really helpful to know and use this information to decide my Scope.
Based on my preferences and situation I have decided to buy an Epsilon.
I called the Takahashi North America today and came to know that next cycle of mirror production for Epsilon 160 is going to begin in about 30 days and the wait time is between 3-5 months. Currently the 130 and 180 Epsilon mirrors are being produced.
They helped me understand why the Epsilon 160 might be better suited for my camera.
As a next step I'll order my Tak and plan for the upgrades, accessories and be prepared to face the battle of tilt.
Again, I appreciate everyone's help here.
Thanks,
Deepan *You get a lot of aperture in a compact package. Big heavy telescopes are not all fun and games! Let me know if I can hep with anything, the focuser upgrade kits do have tilt correction included. Best of luck, Rouz
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Deepan Vishal:
I appreciate everyone here for providing their thoughts and rationale for selecting their Tak.
It was really helpful to know and use this information to decide my Scope.
Based on my preferences and situation I have decided to buy an Epsilon.
I called the Takahashi North America today and came to know that next cycle of mirror production for Epsilon 160 is going to begin in about 30 days and the wait time is between 3-5 months. Currently the 130 and 180 Epsilon mirrors are being produced.
They helped me understand why the Epsilon 160 might be better suited for my camera.
As a next step I'll order my Tak and plan for the upgrades, accessories and be prepared to face the battle of tilt.
Again, I appreciate everyone's help here.
Thanks,
Deepan Excellent choice! Not sure if it's been mentioned in this thread, but you'll want to avoid the official Tak Epsilon mounting rings. They are monumentally expensive and yet designed only for Tak mounts (who uses those in 2023?). Get the rings from either Hutech/More Blue or Parallax.
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Deepan Vishal:
I appreciate everyone here for providing their thoughts and rationale for selecting their Tak.
It was really helpful to know and use this information to decide my Scope.
Based on my preferences and situation I have decided to buy an Epsilon.
I called the Takahashi North America today and came to know that next cycle of mirror production for Epsilon 160 is going to begin in about 30 days and the wait time is between 3-5 months. Currently the 130 and 180 Epsilon mirrors are being produced.
They helped me understand why the Epsilon 160 might be better suited for my camera.
As a next step I'll order my Tak and plan for the upgrades, accessories and be prepared to face the battle of tilt.
Again, I appreciate everyone's help here.
Thanks,
Deepan
Excellent choice! Not sure if it's been mentioned in this thread, but you'll want to avoid the official Tak Epsilon mounting rings. They are monumentally expensive and yet designed only for Tak mounts (who uses those in 2023?). Get the rings from either Hutech/More Blue or Parallax.
The More Blue look good but I am not a fan of the Parallax. There are also the PrimaLuceLab and of course the carbon fiber ones by Rouz....
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Deepan Vishal:
I appreciate everyone here for providing their thoughts and rationale for selecting their Tak.
It was really helpful to know and use this information to decide my Scope.
Based on my preferences and situation I have decided to buy an Epsilon.
I called the Takahashi North America today and came to know that next cycle of mirror production for Epsilon 160 is going to begin in about 30 days and the wait time is between 3-5 months. Currently the 130 and 180 Epsilon mirrors are being produced.
They helped me understand why the Epsilon 160 might be better suited for my camera.
As a next step I'll order my Tak and plan for the upgrades, accessories and be prepared to face the battle of tilt.
Again, I appreciate everyone's help here.
Thanks,
Deepan
Excellent choice! Not sure if it's been mentioned in this thread, but you'll want to avoid the official Tak Epsilon mounting rings. They are monumentally expensive and yet designed only for Tak mounts (who uses those in 2023?). Get the rings from either Hutech/More Blue or Parallax.
They fit on AP SBD16 losmandy dovetail.
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Didn't mean to hijack this thread. Will start another specifically for rings later.
Another point to consider.
I heard of some FSQs going out of alignment.
That can't be corrected by the user, while the Epsilon can.
CS
Rouz
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Reviving this old thread.
Lot of great inputs, I wanted to provide an update on my Tak Journey so far.
Soon after this discussion, I had opportunity to test some used Tak OTA's.
The FSQ-85, FSQ106, Epsilon 180, Epsilon 130 and the TOA 130.
Never tried the Epsilon 160. Reason - the scope was unavailable when I was on the market to purchase one.
All the scopes were great. But Epsilon 180 best fits my imaging goals, my situation and location conditions.
I like it among the other Tak scopes I used. Epsilon 180 is the scope I am going to keep for a while. The Epsilon 130 will be my travel scope.
I appreciate everyone's useful input here.
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What are you planning to do with it?
If its going to incredibly dark skies in a remote observatory - go the Epsilon, but, I'd recommend the E160 over the 180… Yes, the 180 is faster at f/2.8, but the E160 is the only one of the Epsilons to be updated recently, and it has much better spot sizes than the E130 or E180.
The FSQ is a stunningly good scope, but honestly I think the E160ED is FAR superior in dark skies…
If you're planning to have the scope at home, and sometimes travel with it to dark skies etc, the FSQ will be the better option due to simplicity - you just throw it on the mount and start imaging. The Epsilon makes most sense if you're never or only rarely going to risk knocking it out of collimation.
That's my thoughts anyway.
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its a shame you never got to try the E160 - its the best of the Epsilons with a new fancy corrector. The E130 is also great (but not as new) and I'd go E180 last.
I have an E130 and an FSQ85-EDP - the E130 is far sharper.
Don't believe anyone about collimating the Epsilons - its not hard, and it holds for literally years as long as you don't throw the scope around too much.
I'd hold out for the E160 - there's a reason there's none of them available.
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Anderl:
To me the backfocus of the epsilon would be a problem. Not much you can do with 55mm. Probably 90% of astrophotographers would disagree with you here mate. (and its 56.2mm.. but I digress ;-) )
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I don't know if anyone mentioned this here, but be prepared for diffraction spike galore with the Epsilon. Personally, I am not a fan of diffraction spikes, especially intrusive ones like the Epsilon has. Some of my star dense luminance shots of a milky way target with a star rich field can be dominated by diffraction spikes and bright halos around stars that are quite difficult to process.
Another thing to mention is if you plan on full frame imaging, I don't think the 180 supports it, but the FSQ will have no problem at all with a full frame sensor. The 160ED supports full frame, but takes some tinkering and the illumination drop off towards the corners is quite significant. I could never get perfect stars in the corners of my full frame sensor, but they are very useable.
Currently I have both the E160ED and the TOA-130 running remotely, and I enjoy my TOA a lot more. But that has more to do with personal preference. They all are excellent scopes.
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