I polar align with my 10” MCT at 3000mm focal length, using an ASi2600MC DUO, and ASIAir. Works fine - and I’m in the southern hemisphere.
3000mm with an APS-C sensor is the limit for platsolving anyway with the ASiAir as the field is 0.45 x 0.3 degrees.
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There also isn't any reason you can't plate solve using your guide scope just as long as it's aligned with the main scope. That's a little hack that I have had to employ from time to time when I want to shoot with a 2X barlow (1800mm) but the solving keeps failing through the imaging scope.
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You polar align the mount, not the telescope. Focal length doesn't matter, unless you're trying to align your mount using your telescope which will be less than precise. Some choose to do this. Cheers
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Monty Chandler:
You polar align the mount, not the telescope. Focal length doesn't matter, unless you're trying to align your mount using your telescope which will be less than precise. Some choose to do this. Cheers Of course it matters if you use the declination drift method. Which is far more precise than any other method, imho.
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Monty Chandler:
You polar align the mount, not the telescope. Focal length doesn't matter, unless you're trying to align your mount using your telescope which will be less than precise. Some choose to do this. Cheers Of course you align the mount but if you due it through NINA and 3 point polar alignment or SharpCap or whatever you are using the scope to align the mount. These methods are very quick and very accurate. The only reason I can imagine why anyone would use the old drift alignment method would be if system had no ability to be controlled by software.
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andrea tasselli:
Of course it matters if you use the declination drift method. Which is far more precise than any other method, imho. Disagree. As one who has tried everything over 50 years I'd say drift alignment is one of the least accurate, or alternatively the slowest method to achieve an accurate alignment, Using the dec circle and two known stars with get it within a degree, quickly. The method implemented in NINA/SharpCap/ASIAir is both quick and very accurate.
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You are free to disagree. I, however, stand my ground; it is the most accurate albeit the most time consuming so best done on a permanent set-up.
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celestron 9.25 edgeHD+ reducer 0.7x + OAG+6200mm pro not issues for me
CS
Brian
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Don't want to detail this thread, but I'm struggling to get more than 8-12 stars via a C6 1500mm F10 and 533 no reducer 😲 Only had one session attempt. My plan was to focus on moon, but no moon tonight. I could try longer exposures with guiding on, but won't be polar aligned. I could boost gain and offset too. Hoping someone has some magical top secret tips  |
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MaksPower:
And I use the PA routine in ASIAir with my 10” at 3000mm. Reliable and no issues. It would be helpful for you to expand on this post. For instance: What camera / sensor size are you using ? What exposure time during PA process ?
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Before starting PA it is essential to make sure the mount tracking is ON (the default is off when you have parked the mount).
Camera is an ASI2600MC DUO, and exposures typically 1 or 2 secs at max gain (300). With an L-Pro filter 5s.
I tend to use BIN2 for PA to make it a bit quicker to load images, though it works at BIN1.
With a 533 on an SCT you need to boost the gain for PA.
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Kostas Papageorgiou:
I was searching the internet for polar alignment methods at high focal lengths. I can’t find a standard method for this.So, what do you prefer? (Assuming you do it with the high focal length scope..) I use NINA with my C11” @ f/10, 2800mm with an ASI2600 - no problem at all.
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MaksPower:
Before starting PA it is essential to make sure the mount tracking is ON (the default is off when you have parked the mount).
Camera is an ASI2600MC DUO, and exposures typically 1 or 2 secs at max gain (300). With an L-Pro filter 5s.
I tend to use BIN2 for PA to make it a bit quicker to load images, though it works at BIN1.
With a 533 on an SCT you need to boost the gain for PA. I never touched my gain, hopefully doing this will help thanks for the help.
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I use the QHY PoleMaster with my 10" RC at 2000mm focal length for polar alignment. It usually works satisfactorily, although I'm disappointed in the repeatability of the PA. I've used the software to perform alignment and then immediately repeated. Each time the alignment can vary by as much as 1 arcmin or more, and that's alarming. I'm also suspicious about the initial three-point alignment using a single star. When I click on a star, or for that matter on Polaris, how does the PoleMaster software determine the proper point? Does it rely solely upon my "click" on any particular pixel, does it compute a centroid using the whole star, or does it perform some other unknown process? I'd like to try out SharpCap but will require a camera viewing a wider FOV. SharpCap uses the whole scene with many stars for the alignment, and the user doesn't need to "click here" many times over as with the PoleMaster software. I have found threads elsewhere, such as this one, in which folks have successfully used the PoleMaster camera with SharpCap. Does anyone have experience with this? Sounds like a great combination in that my PoleMaster is already nicely mounted and has a good built-in FOV. Thanks for any tips or suggestions!
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MaksPower:
And I use the PA routine in ASIAir with my 10” at 3000mm. Reliable and no issues.
At such high focal lengths, what is the typical error during polar alignment? And what is the typical guiding error do you see?
I am curious because I am really scared of moving to high focal lengths. I generally polar alignment to within 20" accuracy. The guiding errors I get are generally (overall) 0.7-0.9". On good or lucky days, I may get 0.5" also, but there are terrible days when the guiding error is high as 1.2-1.4"
As of now, I am just getting comfortable with 400mm focal lengths!
*** Pixel size and f are closely related. Technically speaking, changing a camera with a smaller pixel is the same as changing the f of a telescope with the same pixel The same applies to Polar alignment. The smaller the pixel, the more accurate the PA must be and vice vers ***
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Ben Koltenbah:
...
I have found threads elsewhere, such as this one, in which folks have successfully used the PoleMaster camera with SharpCap. Does anyone have experience with this? Sounds like a great combination in that my PoleMaster is already nicely mounted and has a good built-in FOV.
... Folks, I've partially answered my own question. The latest SharpCap does indeed mount the PoleMaster, and it exposes far more options and versatility than the PoleMaster software in using it. I also see that I can set the FOV (RROI). I'll give it a try tonight and see how it goes ...
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Ben Koltenbah:
I am now a SharpCap convert. Well put-together software for polar alignment. Lots of versatility.
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