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I have been tweaking guiding settings the last week and have recently become a bit obsessed with the numbers. Ultimately I landed about 0.4RMS on my AM5 and this seems to be OK, But…. There is something that does not quite add up, I am going to state what I have generally learned and then use some pretty common cameras for example Generally, most advice suggests that the RMS numbers should be about half of the main camera/scope imaging scale for optimal guiding results. To calculate image scale it is generally accepted that that 206.3*pixel size / focal length gives the scale. So lets use a 300mm focal length scope and the asi2600mc camera, 206.3 * 3.76 = 775.688 / 300 = 2.585 (pixel scale) … Now divided in halve 1.25 RMS But let’s use a 2500 focal length scope with the same main camera 206.x * 3.76 = 775.688 / 2500 = 0.310 … Now divided in half in 0.155 RMS Ok here’s the dilemma, I don’t think very many people are pulling off 0.155 RMS, I actually think its possible but not very unlikely. Human/Physics/Computer error is starting to get really close when you are at 0.155RMS. But, there are still fabulous images on this site with 2500mm focal length scopes and the asi2600mc camera. I suppose you can bin, but these images I am seeing are not binned, so what gives? Don’t tell me that every one of these imagers has a 50k mount that pulls off sub 0.1 RMS. I don’t believe that for a second. What am I missing? Using an OAG, doesn’t seem to matter, its still requires unreachable RMS numbers, Thoughts? Please teach me what I am missing here? I have never imaged greater that 850mm FL anyways, so this has never really been a concern, but I have a small galaxy itch and big bad 10 inch SCTs are starting to look interesting. |
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You're forgetting about the seeing. People typically say to divide the seeing by 3.33 to calculate the correct pixel scale to sample the seeing correctly. For 2" seeing that's 0.6"/px and 0.310"/px samples 1" seeing. That's why guys with the big scopes spend big money and send them to Chile. :-) Checkout this website to give you idea of how much extra blurriness various guiding RMS values give you over perfect guiding: https://www.astrowithroro.com/guiding I just went through this entire exercise last fall. I ended up buying a premium AP Mach2 mount for big money because of it's Sky Modeling and Absolute Encoders. The idea being that going unguided with a proper sky model creates "perfect" tracking that ignores the effects of seeing and then you get all the resolution the sky offers each night in your subs. However, if you go to that website you'll see you save a boat load of money if you accept just 5% increase in your subs FWHM by buying a less than premium mount like the EQ6-R which can guide all day at 0.5" RMS. For example: ![]() |
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Focal length doesn't mean nearly as much as seeing vs sampling. You can sample 0.2" all day with SCTs, but if your seeing is 3", you're just wasting pixels. And, as you've come to learn, you'll never be able to guide to those numbers anyways. On average, I'd say most folks probably sit in the 3 arc second seeing range from their backyards. If you live in a flatter area with no mountains nearby, you can get substantially better seeing. This is where laminar flow comes into play, and why places like Chile get very good seeing. Also, I know I'll catch some flack from the community, but I'm going to say it anyways. SCT's are not really ideal scopes anymore. In the past when our sensors had 9 micron pixels, they made more sense. Now everything's in the 3 micron range (most are 3.76um now), which puts our sampling much smaller than before. My 6 inch refractor can pull all the same details as a large SCTs, and some of my data could even compete against much bigger scopes. I'm seeing limited most days in my backyard in NC, sampling at 0.96" with a reducer in play, however I still pull in data as low as 1.4". If I wanted to move up to an even bigger scope, I'm not going to gain much detail/sharpness, but I will pick up signal faster. There's alot more math behind it all, but I figure this is a pretty good cliff notes version. Also, to your comment about binning, it's a bit of a thing of the past. Binning on modern CMOS gains you nothing like it did on older CCD's. The only argument for binning these days is to save storage space. |
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Thank you everyone for the replies I'm not sure I totally understand still. First of all thanks for sharing that website That's a heck of a lot easier than doing the math myself. Just so I can kind of understand I'm going to say that I live in a normal neighborhood and have normal seeing in my backyard let's say that it's 3 Does that mean my guiding could be 3/3.33 (.9 ) So are we saying if seeing is 3, that anything better than 0.9rms isn't going to be useful anyway? I like that idea, but those numbers don't line up in my mind. |
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Clayton Ostler: Not quite. What I'm saying is that for 3" seeing you should sample that 3" blurry star with 3.33 pixels which means your pixel size should (ideally) be 0.9"-per-pixel so with 3.76u pixels in your camera the "best" focal length would be about 860mm. You always want to build your system for your best seeing so that when it comes around you can make the most of it. Let's say that's 2" in your location. In that case you want your sampling size to be 0.6"-per-pixel and again with 3.76u pixels that gives a "best" focal length of 1300 mm for that 3.76u pixel camera. As for guiding take a look at the calculator linked above. In the above example with 2" seeing and 5% tolerance in increased FWHM (2" * 1.05 = 2.1") then you need to guide at 0.7" RMS or better while keeping both the RA and DEC at or below 0.5" RMS or better. If you knock that down to 2% tolerance then you need to guide at 0.44" RMS or better and for 1% you need to guide at 0.31" RMS or better. Personally, I shoot for guiding at about 1/2 (or better) my pixel size in arc-seconds (which is about 2% tolerance). So for a 0.6"/px camera/telescope I like to guide at 0.3" RMS or better, but if I can't get there I know that if I can tolerate 5% bigger stars I can guide all the way up to 0.7" RMS. Take a look at this calculator that can tell you if you're camera/focal-length is good sampling for the seeing range in the drop-down box: https://astronomy.tools/calculators/ccd_suitability ![]() |
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I think I am mixing guiding performance and imaging sampling too much, and it is making me confused. I am going to write what I now understand and hopefully anyone who understand this better than I can correct any misunderstandings. Image sampling, specifically for imaging, and less so for guiding however that could be important too...... Not discussed below You can really only capture as much resolution/detail as the sky permits, regardless of your optics. If your optics are good enough (usually this is a combination of aperture/focal length/optics quality/sensor size/pixel size. ..... Then your limiting factor is often "seeing" Example: Lets use a scenario where seeing is limited to 3, then it would optimal for the image to match this as closely as possible, while trying to avoid over-sampling or too much under-sampling Although seeing is variable all the time, for the sake of example, lets say with current seeing of 3 we roughly have "seeing" of 1 arc second per pixel. If we have an imaging resolution (finer) than this we aren't receiving that signal anyway due to the seeing, and if we have imaging resolution higher (less fine) then we could be over-sampling and getting star bloat among other issues. Until this string started, I had always looked at required guiding numbers for RMS being directly related only to the imaging train sample/resolution. I now recognize a couple obvious things. 1. You cant guide any better than you can see 2. Guiding and Imagining is likely limited by seeing more often than not 3. The delta of having an RMS that is not optimal/perfect vs optimal/perfect RMS numbers is not nearly as big as I had originally feared. (This site actually helped me sleep better last night https://www.astrowithroro.com/guiding ) So I am going to take the same camera sensor with 3 different focal lengths while we have a seeing of (3) as examples To calculate image scale it is generally accepted that that 206.3*pixel size / focal length gives the scale, ASI2600MC camera 300mm Focal Length = Pixel Scale of 2.58 (meaning the suggest half of this for target RMS guiding would be 1.29) 800mm Focal Length = Pixel Scale of 0.96 (meaning the suggest half of this for target RMS guiding would be 0.48) 2500mm Focal Length = Pixel Scale of 0.31 (meaning the suggest half of this for target RMS guiding would be 0.155) General suggestions are that the RMS for guiding should be half of the Pixel Scale, which would mean the 300 and 800 seem reachable if you have a mid to high level mount, but the 2500mm version seems almost unreachable for many amateur AP tools. But.... You only can guide as good as the sky/seeing permits, and being "off" of the target RMS does not mean the sky is falling (yes that's a small pun) Example... If seeing is 3, then the real achieved Pixel Scale arriving to the sensor is more around 1 arc second per pixel (pixel scale of 1.0), this means optimal guiding in a seeing of 3 never needs to exceed 0.5 because... you can only see what you can see. The seeing limited Pixel Scale doesn't care that the focal length 2500 or 25000 or anything else, because its seeing limited to around 1.0 pixel scale. I should note that if you are under-sampled you are throwing away details but doesnt have anything to do with guiding, its just the downside of having pixels that are bigger than needed as compared to your focal length, and this is pretty common with shorter focal length setups. Continuing on.... Lets pretend I have a mid grade mount that still cant achieve 0.5 RMS with my guide scope/camera combo but I want to use a big bad 10 inch SCT with 2500mm focal length. All is not lost, first remember my seeing is stuck at 3, so I only need guide as good as 1.0 divided in half so a target RMS of 0.5 And based on the fabulous calculator on https://www.astrowithroro.com/guiding I could get an RMS of 0.95 and this would only negatively affect my image/star size by an estimated 5%. So even with 0.95RMS I can take reasonable images. Not for this post, but I would argue that blurxterminator can fix that 5% in its sleep. What I have learned for this gives me a lot of optimism for using my current gear to still get longer focal length images, and it also helps me stop obsessing about guiding numbers. I can see where the lucky guy on top of a Chilean mountain with perfect seeing would start worrying about pixel scale and getting ridiculously low RMS numbers to take advantage of the sky seeing, but for regular peeps like me, I think seeing is between 2-3 even when I drive an hour out into the desert. Thanks everyone for kicking in info on this. |
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A couple of quick comments: IMO, Oversampling is better than under. Seeing in most places is highly variable so if you shoot shorter subs and cull as needed you can improve your average seeing at the cost of taking longer to capture data. IMO, guiding as it presently is done, degrades high frequency information in your image the same way seeing does. Just like seeing effects, it averages out in stacking so you get round stars. The bottom line is: guide as well as your hardware and conditions will allow no matter what the rules tell you is good enough. |
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I can see your point of view, I dont know that I have enough experience to say that Oversampling or Undersampling is better or worse. I dont know that modern AI tools seems to be able to do more with oversampled data. But I am content, with what I have discovered about guiding in this forum and can go back to imaging vs tweaking my guide settings that likely arent going to make much of a difference anyway. |
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I used to worry about guiding RMS numbers a lot more before I got PI and BlurX. Now not as much. Within reason anyway. Bad data is still bad data, but I’m much happier now knowing that the software is there to rescue stacks that would previously have been deleted, leaving me dejected about the hobby.
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Recently it’s been noticed that blurx does a better job if you have more pixels sampling across the blurry star ‘spot’ how much better and how many more than the traditional 3.33 is up to your experimentation. lastly, the smaller the square in the sky each pixel sees the less signal will be captured by said pixel so you compensate by taking longer subs, but then you have to worry whether or not your jiggly mount can keep said pixel still enough against the sky to support the longer exposures. the only way to get more signal into that pixel is to 1) expose longer, 2) concentrate more light onto said pixel with a bigger mirror, 3) a little of both. in general you pick an image scale (how much sky each pixel sees), then buy the biggest telescope you can that your mount can hold still enough. This means for a fixed image scale the bigger the mirror the faster it’s focal ratio has to be. also don’t forget that you can always downsize your image in PixInsight if you sample too fine. Conversely you can drizzle during stacking if sample too coarsely. its all a balancing act , enjoy the ride that is astrophotography. |
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Oh, one last thing to worry about with guiding: regardless of the total RMS you get, it’s important that you get the Dec RMS close to the RA RMS because otherwise, as can happen with lower end mounts, the RA RMS will be worse which will add more blur to the stars in the RA direction thus turning your round stars into eggs :-)
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Clayton, Perhaps it is me that is not understanding the premise — and I will gladly stand corrected. I'm not sure I agree with the premise that Pixel Scale divided in half results in an "RMS." In two dimensions (represented by RA and DEC), the guiding RMS is calculated as the square root of RA² + DEC². So, if one's Pixel Scale is 2.585, and the Guiding RMS is .70 RMS; all other factors aside (focus, seeing, wind, etc.), the guiding "error" will never be greater than the main camera's Pixel Scale. The photons being collected will "never" move off of each Main Camera pixel, and the result will be "round stars" and detail as good as possible. And, the guiding "error" is constantly being corrected by the mount. Again, if I am not understanding the issue here, please let me know. Jay |
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John Stone: I have always wondered about this one and I see the logic if talking about a single pixel but, imagine this scenario as a thought experiment. You have two sensors that have the same overall size. Sensor A is 2000 x 2000 with 2.5 micron pixels, sensor B is 1000 x 1000 with 5 micron pixels. Both sensors would have the same FOV and total area and so would gather the same number of photons overall with a given optic and exposure time. Of course, the pixels in sensor A are 1/4 the area of the pixels in sensor B but there are 4 times as many. In my mind that means that both sensors would give the same image with the only difference being resolution. What am I missing here? |
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Jay Hovnanian: I dont think we are saying anything different but maybe I can clarify It was suggested that a "good" RMS number would be that Pixel Scale divided in half, so this would be a reasonable target RMS goal. I agree with your pixel scale analogy. If your Pixel Scale is 2.585 and your RMS is 0.70 you can easily guide and retain the same round stars, But to retain a Pixel Scale of 2.585 at a focal length of 2500mm, you would literally need 25um pixels, so the issue at hand was What kind of RMS do I need if my pixel scale is 0.31? But the reality is that regardless of the pixel scale, most seeing provides a pixel scale of around 1.0, so... stressing over the 0.3 scenario is best left to someone in better seeing and with better equipment budgets. |
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Tony Gondola: I think this is a really important point that is easy to overlook when you're considering what your system 'needs' to guide at, but its also REALLY important to not get obsessive with your guiding numbers unless you want to spend most of your imaging time fine tuning the guiding over and over. My rig gets 0.9"/px at f/7 and 1.14"/px at f/5.6, with the average seeing in my area being between 2 and 2.2". Given that, Guiding around the 0.9" rms is all I really NEED to achieve. I have tuned my setup down to about 0.4"~0.5" RMS... Some nights it runs a little worse at ~0.7" rms, some nights its a bit better at 0.3" RMS, but its always (even at its worst) producing better guiding than my system needs to achieve sharp round stars. This allows me to basically start imaging and simply ignore the guiding - knowing that it will perform at the level I need it to. |
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Alex Nicholas:Tony Gondola: That's great advice and frankly the way we got to this whole point was I had just spent three nights tweaking guide settings. Now I can just go back to imaging |
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I used to worry about guiding RMS numbers a lot more before I got PI and BlurX. Now not as much. Within reason anyway. Bad data is still bad data, but I’m much happier now knowing that the software is there to rescue stacks that would previously have been deleted, leaving me dejected about the hobby. I’d caution against promoting this mindset to someone who’s just starting out. While modern tools like PI and BlurX can certainly help salvage marginal data, relying on them to "rescue" poor-quality input shouldn't be the foundation of one’s workflow, especially for beginners. The principle of “garbage in, garbage out” still applies. No amount of post-processing can truly fix fundamentally flawed data. It’s far more valuable for someone new to the hobby to focus on capturing the best possible data from the outset, good acquisition habits, proper calibration, and understanding their gear. Encouraging shortcuts or the idea that software can "fix it later" risks setting them up for frustration and slower growth. We should inspire people to strive for quality and patience, not quick lazy fixes. |
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Jay Hovnanian: This isn't quite correct. Even the smallest "jiggle" in your camera pixel against the sky will result in that pixel seeing a bigger portion of the sky over time than the calculated image scale. If the "jiggle" is evenly distributed in both RA and DEC then that pixel will sample a "square in the sky" equal to the image scale plus the guiding RMS error. If that random motion is uniformly distributed (a big, even smear) then it acts like you have a larger image scale (larger pixel), but if the random-ness is normally distributed (a bell curve) then it will sample the center of the area more than the edges according to the the classic normal bell shape of a normal distribution. I haven't quantified the type of randomness in a mount's guiding error, but you can get a good idea by looking at PhD2's "target bullseye" and setting the history count there to 400. The distribution of red dots will graphically show you the type of randomness your mount is producing over those 400 samples. Ideally you'd like to see most of the red dots clustered in the center and then the count gradually diminish as you get further and further from the center of bullseye. That's like a normal distribution. However if it's just a big, even red smear then it's more like a uniform distribution. I don't know how Rob's website calculates the increase in blurriness for each seeing/guiding RMS but I suspect he assumes a normal distribution. |
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Tony Gondola: Tony Gondola: This is exactly correct. The light emitted by that "square in the sky" that represents your hypothetical FOV will be consumed by 4x more pixels in Sensor A so each pixel in A will have 1/4 the amount of light (ADU counts) than in Sensor B. Now since the noise in a pixel's ADU counts is inversely proportional to the number of ADU counts (Poisson nature of light) what you'll get is a higher resolution but noisier image in A than in B. This shows the SNR vs Resolution tradeoff. The sky offers a constant flow of photons. You make tradeoffs in how you capture them in your camera's sensor using your telescope optics to produce an image you like in the time you have. Personally, I always prefer to capture as much resolution as the sky offers and then just image longer to reduce the noise in each pixel until I can actually see in the image what the sky is sending. |
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Clayton Ostler: As a rule of thumb, and so as not to get to lost in the maths and physics and then not enjoy the hobby, take your average seeing of 3”/pixel, (you are seeing limited) then in theory approx 2.0 total RMS would be ok, but for the sake of errors take 1.0 rms, which gives a bit of headroom, and you will be good, but you want your RA and DEC rms errors to be as close as possible to still get nice round stars. i image at 1.5”/pixel, and my average seeing is around 2.5 - 3, so I am seeing limited, and not limited by my optics, so as long as I keep the RMS under approx 1.5 then I am happy as long as the two axis are as close as possible, I usually get between 0.4 and 0.9 with my mount so I never even bother about the guiding numbers, as they are always well under what I need. in your second example above, you will be seeing limited as your optics can resolve more detail than the seeing will allow, so you need to take that into account, just because you are imaging at 0.3”/pixel, does not mean you can see that much detail, because the seeing won’t allow it, so no point in chasing really low guide RMS numbers, it just ain’t gonna happen. |
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Hey everyone, Just to add my two cents to this topic: you’ll find a calculator suitable for many of the parameters and variables discussed here. You can download it from my GitHub link: https://github.com/ecliptico/astro/releases/download/v1.1.0/Astrocalc1_1.exe It may come in handy—especially if you are out there on the field and your internet signal is poor. Cheers. Guy |