Buongiorno Cari appassionati.. Non riesco a capire che tipo di difetto sia questo, visibile sulle immagini che ho allegato… la prima un frame di acquisizione, la seconda un Flat e la terza uno zoom del Flat… sono dei puntini molto marcati.. scatti fatti a distanza di una decina di ore tra il primo e gli altri… solo a volte mi succede… Questo il mio Setup: Skywatcher 250P Quattro (250/1000), Asi 294 MC Pro con interposto filtro Antlia Quad Band antinquinamento 2”…    |
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Quello che vedi è formazione di ghiaccio o umidità sul sensore.
Per sistemare puoi diminuire il raffreddamento, raffreddare più lentamente oppure sostituire le pastiglie essiccanti all'interno della camera del sensore (o tutte e tre le cose).
Se sostituisci le pastiglie essiccanti stai attento alla polvere che si potrebbe depositare sul sensore.
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E' estate (almeno lo e' in Italia) quindi scala il raffreddamento a non piu' di zero gradi centrigradi. La ASI294MC e' notoria per essere scarsa a tenuta d'aria. Alte temperature signficano piu' umidita' nell'aria e di consequenza nella camera del sensore che non e' sigillata. Cambiare le pasticche e' totalmente inutile.
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andrea tasselli:
Changing the pads is totally useless. Hi @Andrea tasselli, I too have the ASI294MC and now shoot mostly at 0C. I sometimes try to cool to -10C but most often it forms ice crystals. I have tried to cool to -3C, wait, and cool to -10C but still ice formations... I do notice less noise at -10C but it risks from ice formation... Do you have any experience with the ASI294MC? And what do you recommend? Will slow cooling really help? (I cannot imagine this would help as -10C is -10C and perhaps only different crystals would form, but if the camera is not sealed it would attract moisture no matter how slow you cool...) Thanks for your input, you seem to know your stuff!  |
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Hi Niels,
Thanks for the words of praise, surely undeserved ;)
I got both the 294MC and 294MM and both can't operate at -10degC when is warm (> 20 degC) outside or has been hot during the day. The 294MC is much older than the MM and thus more sensitive to these conditions and cooling down even in 20 minutes does not help and in the end I won't risk it. The MM is slightly better in these regards but still, wet and warm won't suit it that much. It takes less to get rid of them ice crystals once formed with the MM, possibly within half an hour whilst the older camera might take a lot longer. Bottom line: at any RH greater than 65-70% just pull the cooling up to around zero or even slightly above if really humid.
Andrea
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andrea tasselli:
Hi Niels,
Thanks for the words of praise, surely undeserved ;)
I got both the 294MC and 294MM and both can't operate at -10degC when is warm (> 20 degC) outside or has been hot during the day. The 294MC is much older than the MM and thus more sensitive to these conditions and cooling down even in 20 minutes does not help and in the end I won't risk it. The MM is slightly better in these regards but still, wet and warm won't suit it that much. It takes less to get rid of them ice crystals once formed with the MM, possibly within half an hour whilst the older camera might take a lot longer. Bottom line: at any RH greater than 65-70% just pull the cooling up to around zero or even slightly above if really humid.
Andrea Grazie mille per queste informazioni molto preziose..
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Con poche parole mi avete aiutato molto a capire.. Grazie mille 🙂👍🏼
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andrea tasselli:
surely undeserved By sharing your experience, it is most surely deserved! Sharing knowledge gets everyone further! I didn't really pay much attention to the ice crystals forming until you mentioned these are actually ice. Now I can easily spot it in the histogram as well, with a should appearing broadening the main peak. I typically just try a few images at the start of the night when it is cool to see if ice forms and then go from there. But it is interesting to actually track the RH - I will to find a humidit-o-meter (or whatever it is called ). But if one can shoot at -10C with the 294MC, do you see any benefit at all?
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andrea tasselli:
surely undeserved
By sharing your experience, it is most surely deserved! Sharing knowledge gets everyone further!
I didn't really pay much attention to the ice crystals forming until you mentioned these are actually ice. Now I can easily spot it in the histogram as well, with a should appearing broadening the main peak. I typically just try a few images at the start of the night when it is cool to see if ice forms and then go from there. But it is interesting to actually track the RH - I will to find a humidit-o-meter (or whatever it is called ).
But if one can shoot at -10C with the 294MC, do you see any benefit at all?
*Just slightly less hot pixels but hardly an inconvenience. Not if you have a well-honed processing pipeline.
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Hi,
I used a 294mc pro during almost 3 years, always cooling to -10° in summer and -20° in winter. Cooling time never exceeded 5 minutes. After two years, I started getting ice forming on the sensor, just as you do. It was time to change or refresh the desicant tabs in the sensor chamber. I opted for refreshing them in the microwave oven. Everything back to normal since that.
CS
Patrice
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patrice_so:
Hi,
Is used a 294mc pro during almost 3 years, always cooling to -10° in summer and -20° in winter. Cooling time never exceeded 5 minutes. After two years, I started getting ice forming on the sensor, just as you do. It was time to change or refresh the desicant tabs in the sensor chamber. I opted for refreshing them in the microwave oven. Everything back to normal since that.
CS
Patrice Interessante.. grazie.. ma la mia 294 ha solo un anno..
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Da quando ho saputo, uso 0 gradi se la temperatura esterna è più di 20 C, e non mi si è più presentato il problema, ma ho constatato che si vede chiaramente più rumore, ultimamente però porto a 0 gradi la 294 MC per circa 10-20 minuti poi la sposto a -10 C.. e per ora sta funzionando, niente cristalli sul sensore..
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Hi guys! I had the same problem with my 294mc pro. It's frosting. It happens when you cool your camera too fast. Take more time to cool it down, then take a new test image.
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Cambiare le pasticche e' totalmente inutile. Ciao Andrea, nel mio caso il cambio delle pasticche è l'unica cosa che ha risolto. Ho provato anche con la resistenza adesiva ma nulla. Tieni presente che dopo averle sostituite devi attendere che assorbano l'umidità almeno per un paio di giorni
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Ciao Giampiero,
Non e' cambiato nulla per me e ho atteso per ben piu' di 2 giorni. Sia nuove che passate al forno a micro-onde. Credo che il problema sia nella precisione dell'accoppiemento delle flange. Dove la tolleranza e' un po' piu larga del dovuto avrai sempre delle infiltrazioni. Adesso ho sigillato la flange ma non in maniera permanente e un po' aiuta…
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